Traditional Japanese Metalwork: History, Techniques, and Timeless Craftsmanship

 

1. Nambu ironware

Nambu ironware, known in Japan as Nambu tekki, is a type of cast iron made in Morioka and Mizusawa, two cities in Iwate Prefecture. It goes back to the Edo period, around the 1600s. The name comes from the Nambu domain, the area where it all started. This ironware is known for being strong, rust-resistant, and good at holding heat. It heats evenly and keeps liquids warm for a long time. That’s why it’s popular for tea kettles and cookware.

One thing that stands out is the surface. Most kettles have a raised dotted pattern called arare, which means hailstone. This rough surface isn't just for looks. It gives the iron more surface area, which helps with heating. Each craftsman makes their own arare design, so no two kettles are exactly the same. Kettles are the most common item, but there are also saucepans, wind chimes, and small iron accessories made in the same style.

The Origin and History of Nambu Ironware

This craft started with tea culture. Around the mid-1600s, in what’s now Iwate Prefecture, tea ceremonies were an important tradition. The local leaders wanted better tea kettles, so they brought in expert metalworkers. The area had a lot of iron, so it was a good place to start casting.

In 1659, a feudal lord invited a skilled kettle maker named Nizaemon Koizumi to move from Kyoto to the Nambu area. His job was to create iron kettles near the castle. The Koizumi family became the key producers of tea kettles there. They made pots for local ceremonies and even special gifts for the emperor. The craft stayed in the family and was passed down for generations.

Later, under the third-generation Koizumi, a smaller version of the traditional tea kettle was created. It became known as the "Nambu iron kettle" and gained attention for its size and quality. It wasn’t just for formal tea settings anymore. People began using it in everyday life too.

In 1908, Emperor Taisho, before becoming emperor, toured the Tohoku region. While there, he watched the eighth-generation Koizumi work on Nambu ironware. The event got national news coverage and gave the craft a lot of exposure. After that, more people across Japan started buying it.

Modern Nambu Ironware in Japan

Today, real Nambu ironware still comes only from Morioka and Mizusawa in Iwate. That regional origin is part of what makes it authentic. The designs and methods still follow the old ways, even though the market has grown. Each piece is handmade, and the focus stays on quality and tradition. These iron kettles and other items are now seen as both useful and collectible.

Whether for brewing tea or adding character to a kitchen, Nambu ironware is a solid example of how Japan’s traditional crafts still hold value. They last for decades and carry history with every pour.

How Nambu Ironware Is Made

Initial Drawing and Design

It all starts with a sketch. The basic shape of the iron kettle is drawn by hand. The artist decides the size, form, and overall look. From there, they create a cross-section drawing to show how the inside should be shaped. A casting model is then made to match the final design. In the past, this model was carved from wood. These days, it’s usually made from iron. This model is used to form the mold that will shape the real ironware.

Building the Mold

To make the casting mold, different types of sand and clay are packed around the iron model. As the model spins, the materials take on the shape of the iron. The outer layers start with rough sand and move to finer grains. This step has to be done carefully. If anything changes while spinning, the mold can collapse. At this stage, the parts for the kettle’s ears, the spout, and the lid handle are also shaped using clay.

Stamping the Surface Pattern

With the mold formed, the design work begins. Before the sand dries, the craftsman adds the classic arare texture. This dotted pattern is stamped in by hand using brushes or fabric pads. Since it’s all done manually, every pattern ends up different. Once the design is in place, the mold is dried and then fired in a charcoal furnace. The heat usually reaches between 900 and 1300 degrees Celsius. Depending on how complex the design is, the time in the fire may vary. If the mold cracks during baking, it gets patched up using a spatula or small brush.

Shaping the Inside Core

The inside mold, or core, comes next. Using the same method as the outer mold, a mix of baked sand, river sand, and clay is shaped using prepared templates. This mix is what gives the kettle its hollow shape. The mold is placed on a wheel, and the core is pressed into it to form the inside bowl. Separate templates for the outside walls and the base are also made at this point. These parts are dried fully, so all the moisture is removed.

Final Baking and Repairs

Once dry, the full mold goes back into the charcoal fire, this time at around 800 to 1000 degrees Celsius. This second baking hardens everything into its final form. If the mold cracks during the heat, it gets fixed right away using a small tool. The final touch is creating a runner (a channel at the base of the mold) so the molten iron can be poured in. This step also finishes the lid. Once this is done, the mold is ready for casting.

Putting the Mold Together

Once the inner and outer parts of the mold are finished and dried, they get assembled. The core is placed inside the outer mold with the bottom side facing up. Small iron supports, called chaplets, are added in a few spots inside the core. These hold the core steady and stop it from floating when the hot iron is poured. Then the base of the mold is added to seal everything in place.

Pouring the Molten Iron

Now it’s time for casting. The iron is melted down in a furnace until it’s a liquid. Instead of pouring it straight into the mold, the molten iron is scooped using a special ladle called a toribe. The craftsman carefully pours the iron into the mold this way to keep the process controlled and precise.

Removing the Mold and Cleaning the Surface

Once the iron has cooled and hardened, the mold is broken open. The inner core and outer mold are removed to reveal the rough iron shape. At this point, the surface has burrs, which are hardened edges or residue left from the casting. These are cleaned off completely. After that, the whole piece is scrubbed down using wire brushes or similar tools until smooth.

Then comes another round of baking. The iron kettle is heated again at about 800 to 1000 degrees Celsius. This extra baking creates a thin oxide layer on the surface, which protects the kettle from rust.

Polishing and Coloring the Kettle

After the final bake, each kettle is checked to make sure there are no leaks or weak spots. Once it passes inspection, the coloring process begins. The kettle is warmed to about 200 to 300 degrees Celsius using charcoal. A thin coat of lacquer is brushed on. When the lacquer scorches slightly, it gets sealed with another layer. That second layer is a mix called ohaguro, which means “teeth blackening liquid.” It’s made from iron rust and tea. Once this liquid is applied, the kettle takes on its final dark finish.

Making and Attaching the Handle

The last piece is the handle. These curved handles, called bail handles, are made by separate metalwork experts. Once the handle is attached, the Nambu iron kettle is complete. Every part has been shaped, baked, finished, and colored by hand. The result is a kettle built to last, both as a tool and a piece of traditional Japanese metal art.

 

2. Takaoka copperware

Takaoka copperware, known as Takaoka doki in Japan, is a traditional form of metalwork made in and around Takaoka City in Toyama Prefecture. It includes a wide range of items. You’ll see small decorative pieces like indoor ornaments, Buddhist tools, and flower vases. On the other end, there are large-scale items too, like temple bells, Buddhist figures, and full-sized copper statues.

This copperware is considered one of the finest in Japan. Many life-sized anime character statues placed in cities across Japan as part of tourism and development efforts are made using Takaoka copperware. Most people in Japan have seen it in public spaces without even realizing it. These handcrafted items are also popular overseas. They’re sold in different countries and are known for their detailed finish and long-lasting quality.

How Takaoka Copperware Is Made

What makes Takaoka copperware stand out is how it's made. Skilled craftspeople use precise casting techniques by hand. After that, they add layers of detail through polishing, metal carving, and inlay work. These steps come together to create pieces that are strong, intricate, and flexible in form.

The surface of the copper changes as the years go by, deepening in color and feel. That natural aging process adds to its charm. These items are built not just to last but to get better over time. Each piece tells a story, not just when it’s made but as it ages.

The History Behind Takaoka Copperware

The roots of Takaoka copperware go back over 400 years. It started in the early Edo period, which ran from 1603 to 1868. In 1609, a local lord named Toshinaga Maeda, who was the second head of the Kaga Domain, took over Takaoka Castle. A couple of years later, in 1611, he brought seven metal casting masters to the area. They set up a casting workshop near the castle and started off making iron goods for daily use. That included tools for farming and everyday cookware.

The switch to copperware came later, somewhere between 1830 and 1848. That’s when the real identity of Takaoka as a center for copperwork began to take shape.

Takaoka Copperware Goes Global

By the time the Meiji period rolled around in 1868, Takaoka copperware had started getting international attention. It was shown at global expos in Austria and cities like London and Paris. These displays helped boost the appeal of Japanese-made items in Europe. That trend lasted through the Meiji and Taisho periods up to 1926. During those years, artisans made more decorative pieces and tools for tea ceremonies. These weren’t just souvenirs. They were seen as works of art.

As demand grew, so did production. People across Japan began to view Takaoka copperware as a refined gift, something with meaning and craftsmanship behind it.

A Recognized National Craft

In 1975, Takaoka copperware became the first craft in Japan to be officially recognized as a national traditional handicraft. That title set it apart. It’s not just a regional product. It’s a part of Japan’s living history, a craft still carried forward by local hands and passed down through generations.

Takaoka copperware isn’t just about the material or the technique. It’s about the time it holds and the way it quietly changes while staying true to its form. Whether you see it on a shelf, in a temple, or in a city plaza, you’re looking at something with deep roots and real craft behind it.

How Takaoka Copperware Is Made: Step by Step

Creating the Original Model

It all starts with a model. This step is where the shape and size of the final piece are planned out. The model is made from something soft and easy to shape, like wood, clay, plaster, or resin. Artisans follow detailed sketches or blueprints to get everything just right, since this model sets the foundation for how the copperware will look in the end.

Building the Loam Mold

Once the model is ready, a mold is made using fireproof materials. A release agent goes on first so the mold can come off clean later. Then, layers of roughing loam and paper clay are applied over the model. Sometimes metal rods are added inside the mold to make it stronger. The mold needs to dry fully and harden before it can be used.

Setting the Mold

The mold has two parts: an inner mold and an outer mold. The inner one is made smaller than the model. The gap between the two controls how thick the final copper product will be. That space has to be even all the way through, or the casting will come out lopsided or warped. When the mold is dry and strong, it’s taken off the model. At that point, the outer mold is complete and ready for casting.

Melting the Metal

Next, the metal is cleaned and melted. This step is called refining. It removes anything that doesn’t belong in the copper, making it purer. The metal is then heated to about 1150 to 1250 degrees Celsius until it turns into liquid. This part is tricky. If it gets too hot, the surface of the finished piece can turn rough, which ruins the look. And since molten copper is extremely hot, it’s also dangerous, so the temperature must be watched closely.

Pouring the Molten Copper

Once the copper is at the right heat, it’s poured into the mold. This is the casting process. The liquid metal fills the space between the inner and outer mold. It has to be poured smoothly to avoid air bubbles or weak spots. Once poured, the copper cools inside the mold until it becomes solid again.

Breaking the Mold and Taking It Out

After cooling, the mold is broken open. The inner and outer parts are removed, and the rough copper piece is taken out. At this stage, the shape is formed but still needs a lot of finishing work.

Finishing the Surface

Polishing comes first. Both physical and chemical polishing are used. Physical polishing smooths the surface by hand, while chemical polishing uses acid to even out the texture. Once the piece is smooth, carving starts. This is done with sharp chisels that engrave patterns or images onto the surface. Copperware with this detailed carving is known as karakane imono and is closely tied to Takaoka’s history.

Inlaying and Final Coloring

Inlaying comes next. This adds gold, silver, or other metals into the carved areas. There are different ways to do it. Some inlays are fine lines pressed into the surface. Others involve cutting small holes and filling them with metal, then fusing it in place. High relief inlays raise parts of the surface to add depth and shape.

Coloring is the final step. This uses natural materials and chemicals to create deep shades and rust-like tones. The goal is to bring out the best in the copper, making the design stand out and giving it the aged look Takaoka pieces are known for.

Every step in this process shows how much care, skill, and patience goes into each item. That’s what makes Takaoka copperware more than just metalwork. It’s a craft that has been shaped and refined for centuries.

 

3. Yamagata cast iron

Yamagata cast iron, known in Japan as Yamagata imono, comes from the city of Yamagata in Yamagata Prefecture. This metalwork tradition has been around for centuries. It started with basic items like fittings, religious statues, and everyday tools. Over time, skilled craftsmen began shaping more refined pieces like iron kettles and chagama, which are special iron pots used in tea ceremonies.

Today, Yamagata ironwork splits into two main types. One side makes machinery castings, like parts for farm tools, industrial machines, and cars. The other focuses on handcrafted goods, including home items, artwork, and traditional crafts. When it comes to chagama for tea ceremonies, Yamagata leads the market in Japan. These pieces are respected for both their look and the skill behind them. And it’s not just Japan anymore. Exports of these ironworks are growing worldwide. In 1974, Yamagata cast iron was officially recognized as a traditional Japanese craft.

The makers behind this ironwork rely on old methods that go back hundreds of years. Their goal is to keep the solid look and feel of iron, while shaping it into finely detailed forms. To get those textures and patterns, they use several techniques. They create special sand molds, press designs into them, and even beat the surface to form details. For tea and iron pots, they use pure iron. Other products might use bronze too. As the craft evolved, they added new materials, and recently, aluminum has become part of the mix.

The history of Yamagata cast iron stretches all the way back to the end of the Heian period, between 794 and 1185 CE. It began when a military leader named Minamoto no Yoriyoshi came to the area to put down a rebellion. His group included metalworkers. They noticed the sand in the Mamigasaki River and the nearby soil were perfect for mold making. Some of those craftsmen settled in the region. About 180 years later, during the Nanboku-chō period (1336 to 1392), records show that metal fittings were being produced in the area.

It wasn’t until the Edo period, from 1603 to 1868, that the casting industry truly took off. Yoshiaki Mogami, lord of Yamagata Castle, rebuilt the town around the castle and pushed for stronger local industries. He set up two manufacturing towns north of the Mamigasaki River. This gave metalworkers a base to grow their craft. At the time, Buddhist statues and practical goods were made and sold to pilgrims visiting the sacred Dewa Sanzan mountains. These souvenirs gained attention across Japan and helped turn Yamagata into a major center for cast iron.

By the middle of the Edo period, artisans had learned to create larger works, like temple bells and stone lanterns for gardens. After the Edo era ended in 1868, the casting trade turned into modern manufacturing. Workshops began producing a wide range of items, including tea ceremony kettles.

Later, during the Taisho period (1912 to 1926), the industry added machine parts to its output. This new area of production worked alongside the older, traditional craft. In 1973, the city built a specialized zone in the west called Imono Town. Today, that’s where most of the machine casting still happens.

Yamagata cast iron has stayed alive by blending tradition with new tools and ideas. Whether it’s a handmade kettle or a machine part, each piece carries a long history and a clear purpose. The craft keeps moving forward, rooted in skill, culture, and a strong local legacy.

How Yamagata Cast Iron Is Made: Step by Step

Mold Making Starts Everything

Every piece begins with a clear drawing of the final product, like an iron kettle. From that, a full-size model is built using wood, resin, or plaster. This model has to be exact. If it’s off, the final piece won’t come out right. Once the model’s ready, it’s used to form the upper and lower molds. These are shaped inside a round frame. The model gets rotated to press the sand tight into place. The sand and clay from Yamagata are key here. They give the finished iron its fine texture.

Adding Patterns and Handle Details

A space is carved into the mold for the handle loop. This makes room for someone’s hand to pass through. Then, a tool called an ezue, shaped like a spatula, is used to draw designs onto the mold. These patterns show up on the finished iron. One common design is called arare, which looks like small bumps, similar to a hailstorm. It gives the piece texture and character.

Forming the Hollow Core

For kettles and other hollow items, a solid core made from sand is created. This inner form is dried naturally, then fired to harden it. It gets placed inside the outer mold. The final thickness of the iron depends on the gap between this core and the outer mold. This step shapes the inside of the item.

Pouring the Molten Metal

Next comes the metal. Molten iron is heated until it reaches about 1300 to 1500 degrees Celsius. That’s roughly 2370 to 2730 degrees Fahrenheit. It’s then poured from a smaller melting pot straight into the mold. The metal has to stay hot. If it cools down too soon, the final product won’t come out right. Even the most experienced artisans watch this step closely, making sure the temperature stays just right.

Breaking the Mold and Cleaning the Piece

Around ten minutes after pouring, the mold is broken open with a hammer. The new kettle is removed while it’s still warm. If it cools too much, it gets stuck and harder to pull out. Once the kettle is free and cool enough to handle, leftover sand and rough parts are hammered off. Then, the piece is filed and shaped by hand. A mix of different files is used to clean up the edges and polish every detail.

Coloring and Finishing

Now it’s time to color the piece. A special brush is used to paint on layers of lacquer while the kettle heats over a fire. For colored pieces, a traditional liquid made from iron, rust, and tea is applied. This gives the surface a rich, deep tone.

From start to finish, Yamagata cast iron is made using techniques passed down for centuries. Every step is done with care. Every detail matters. These old-world methods are what give each piece its signature look and feel: solid, textured, and unlike anything else.

 

4. Sakai cutlery

Sakai knives come from the cities of Sakai and Osaka in Japan’s Osaka Prefecture. These are not just regular kitchen blades. They’re hammer-forged by hand using two kinds of metal: soft iron and steel. That mix is what gives them strength and a sharp edge that lasts. This method isn’t new. It’s a time-tested tradition that’s still being carried on today.

While many factory-made kitchen knives are stamped from one sheet of steel, Sakai blades are shaped by hammering and layering. They’re built to stay sharp for a long time and hold up under heavy use. That’s why they’re a top pick for chefs who rely on their tools every day. These knives aren’t just for show. They work hard and stay sharp.

Each Sakai knife goes through three main steps. First, a blacksmith shapes the blade. Then, a sharpener grinds and polishes it. Last, a handle maker fits the grip. Every step is handled by a specialist to make sure the quality stays high. Sakai knives come in all kinds of shapes and sizes depending on what they’re meant to cut. Over 90 percent of Japanese chefs use knives made in Sakai, and that’s not by accident.

The roots of Sakai knife-making run deep. Sakai is home to ancient burial mounds like the Daisen Kofun, a huge keyhole-shaped tomb believed to have been built during the Kofun period, which lasted from 300 to 538 CE. To build these massive tombs, workers needed a lot of tools. The blacksmiths who made those tools settled in the area and kept refining their skills. Over time, they went from crafting farming tools to weapons and knives.

In 1543, the Portuguese introduced guns and tobacco to Japan. Sakai already had expert metalworkers, so it quickly became a center for gun-making, especially during the Sengoku period, when war was constant. But when peace returned in the Edo period starting in 1603, the need for guns dropped. People started smoking more instead. That opened up a new market: knives made for cutting tobacco leaves.

Sakai craftsmen switched gears and made high-quality tobacco knives. Their blades were so good that the Tokugawa shogunate stepped in. They gave Sakai blades an official stamp of approval, the Sakai Kiwame mark, and turned tobacco knife production into a government-controlled monopoly. Word spread fast. Soon, everyone in Japan knew about the quality of Sakai blades.

Later, as machines took over tobacco processing, demand for those knives faded. But the blacksmiths didn’t stop. They turned their focus to cooking knives and found strong support from chefs all over the country. That support never went away. Today, Sakai blades are still known for their durability, precision, and craftsmanship. They’re not just kitchen tools. They’re part of a legacy.

How Sakai Knives Are Made: Step-by-Step Process

The production of a Sakai knife is long and detailed. Every step is done by hand, with care and skill. The goal is to make a blade that cuts clean, stays sharp, and lasts for years. Here's how it happens, from start to finish.

Welding the Steel to Soft Iron

The process starts with welding two types of metal. Soft iron is heated until red hot. Then, a piece of steel coated in boric acid, borax, and iron oxide powder is stacked on top. The two are softened in a furnace at around 900 degrees Celsius. After that, they’re hammered together. This bonds them into one solid piece of steel and iron. This layered base becomes the blade.

Forming the Knife’s Shape

Next, the bonded metal is heated again, this time to about 600 to 700 degrees Celsius. While it’s hot, the metal is hammered out to make it thinner. This forms the basic knife shape. Any extra metal is cut off. The part where the handle will attach, called the tang, is also shaped at this point.

Natural Cooling

Once shaped, the knife is placed on straw to cool slowly. As the heat transfers into the straw, it turns to ash. This gentle cooling process removes stress in the metal and prevents cracks or warping.

Rough Hammering for Strength and Shape

After cooling, the blade is hammered at room temperature. This gets rid of any bumps or air holes left from the earlier shaping. It also fixes distortion, flattens the surface, and gives the blade an even thickness. Any impurities in the metal are worked out during this step.

Cutting Out the Final Form

The blade is placed on a pattern or guide, and extra metal around the edges is trimmed away. This step makes sure the final size and shape are correct.

Grinding and Engraving

Now the surface gets smoothed out. First, any remaining distortion is fixed. Then, an engraving is added to the back of the blade. After that, a grinder is used to clean up sharp edges and make the surface more refined. If there’s still any distortion, it’s hammered again to straighten it out.

Mud Coating for Heat Protection

Before hardening, the blade is covered in a layer of mud. This helps the knife heat up and cool down evenly. First, oil and debris are cleaned off. Then, the mud is applied. The blade is left near the furnace to dry completely before the next step.

Tempering the Blade

Tempering hardens the blade. It also makes it tough enough to resist chips. The knife is first heated to about 750 to 800 degrees Celsius, then quickly dunked in cold water. After that, it’s heated again to around 180 to 200 degrees and allowed to cool on its own. This mix of fast and slow cooling creates the perfect balance of hardness and flexibility. To get the timing right, craftsmen splash water onto the blade and watch how it moves. That takes skill, and it comes from years of practice.

Polishing the Blade to Finish

Polishing is the final stage before the handle is added. It takes the rough steel and turns it into a razor-sharp blade. This process has several parts.

First is rough polishing. This shapes the edge and checks for any obvious issues. Then comes fine polishing, where the edge is further sharpened and the blade's thickness is adjusted. Any marks or scratches from rough polishing are cleaned up here. Next is polishing the reverse side of the blade. After that comes hazing. This involves rubbing the blade with powder made from whetstone. The iron turns matte while the steel shines. This contrast brings out the line between the two metals and gives the blade a clean, sharp look. Last is the final polish, done with an ultra-fine whetstone. The edge is honed with care until it’s razor sharp and ready for use.

After all of this, the knife is finally ready to be fitted with a handle. The result is a tool built for precision, power, and long-lasting performance.

 

5. Tokyo silverware

Tokyo silverware, known in Japanese as Tokyo ginki, is a traditional metal craft made in parts of Tokyo like Taito, Arakawa, and Bunkyo. It traces its roots back to the Edo period, between 1603 and 1868, and the same methods are still used today. Craftsmen known as tankinshi, choukanshi, and shiageshi keep these old techniques alive.

Silver is the base material. Artisans use it to make everything from tableware and decorative items to ear picks and small personal accessories. They also craft cutlery like pastry knives and baby spoons. The metal is non-toxic and durable, which makes it safe for everyday use.

What Makes Tokyo Silverware Unique

One thing that sets Tokyo silverware apart is the natural shine that only real silver has. It looks sleek and clean. Each piece is made by hand with careful attention to detail. The process takes time and patience, and every step relies on the skill of the maker.

Silver also changes with time. It reacts with sulfide in the air, which slowly darkens the surface. This process is called sulfurization. Instead of avoiding it, many artists use this to their advantage. Through a finishing method called furubi, they create rich tones and aged textures that give the piece an antique look. That change in color, mixed with the smooth lines and shine, is part of what draws people to it.

A Legacy That Still Lives On

Tokyo silverware is still popular today. People often buy it as gifts or souvenirs, but it’s also made for regular, practical use. The designs reflect both tradition and modern taste. And the techniques behind them are passed down through generations.

Silver itself has deep roots in Japanese culture. Records of silver cups and dishes appear in ancient books like the Engishiki, written in the 900s. Back then, silver was rare. Before large mines existed, it was a prized resource. When mines like the Iwami Ginzan opened in what is now Shimane, silver became more accessible, though still precious.

You can find fine examples of early Japanese silverwork among the artifacts stored in Horyuji Temple in Nara. That collection includes over three hundred pieces, many dating back to the 600s and 700s. These include items of high quality, proof of the long-standing tradition of silver craftsmanship in Japan.

From Edo to Global Attention

During the Edo period, silver was popular with merchants and townspeople. Artisans at the time included shiroganeshi, who specialized in silverware, and kinkoshi, who made silver ornaments. Their work covered a wide range, from simple tools to luxury goods.

In 1867, Japanese silverware was showcased at the International Exposition in Paris. It drew a lot of attention for its fine detail and creative design. That exposure helped fuel interest abroad. Soon after, European techniques also began influencing local production. This mix of styles led to even more variety in the shapes, finishes, and patterns of silver goods.

After World War II, Tokyo became a travel hub. Tourists, especially Americans, began buying Tokyo silverware as souvenirs. The demand led to new styles and products. Even now, that curiosity continues. The blend of old and new, along with the natural beauty of silver, keeps people coming back.

Tokyo silverware isn't just something you look at. It’s made to be used, appreciated, and passed down. Each piece reflects history, tradition, and the quiet skill of its maker.

How Tokyo Silverware Is Made

The process behind Tokyo silverware is detailed and slow, built on careful work by hand. Every step, from shaping to finishing, demands focus. The final result is a piece that’s functional, long-lasting, and rich with character. Here's how it's done.

Hammering and Shaping the Silver

The first step starts by heating silver to soften it. This makes it easier to shape. The artisan marks out the area they need using a compass. If the piece needs to be round, scissors help trim it into shape. The flat silver is placed over a hollow in the workbench and struck with a wooden mallet to make it curve into a shallow bowl or plate.

After that, the silver is shaped more precisely using a metal hammer and a backing strip, which supports the piece while it's being worked. Once hammered, it's reheated to keep it soft. This cycle of heating and hammering gets repeated to bring out the form. For texture or design, the artist can press special patterns, like a tortoise shell or stone grain, into the surface using a patterned metal hammer.

Carving and Inlaying Metal Details

Carving designs into silver takes a steady hand. The artist first copies the design onto traditional Japanese paper, which they attach to the item, often something like an incense burner. To help absorb the hammer blows, the inside is filled with resin. With a sharp chisel, they follow the drawn lines and carve out the pattern.

Next comes inlaying. This part involves cutting shapes from one piece of metal and fitting them into another. A sheet of silver is flattened out on an anvil, then the design is pasted on. The artisan cuts out sections from the silver sheet and fits other metals into those spaces by hand. Fingertips do most of the work here. Once the pieces are snug, they coat the seams with borax and apply melted silver pewter to bond everything. Any extra pewter is trimmed away and smoothed down with a whetstone.

Coloring and Patina

There are two main ways to patinate silver: boiling and gold coloring.

For boiling, called niiro in Japanese, the piece is first scrubbed with charcoal, polishing sand, or baking soda to remove the shiny surface. After that, it’s treated with baking soda or powdered animal horn. To take off the oxidized layer, they use plum vinegar, followed by a wash in white radish juice. The silver is then soaked in a mix of copper sulfate and rust in water. This colors the metal and is rinsed again to fix the tone.

For gold patina, or kinfurubi, the goal is to add a warm, darker finish. First, the silver is cleaned with sand or baking soda to get rid of oils. A rough polishing mix is applied. Then, cotton soaked in a solution of auric chloride and ethanol is wiped over the surface. Sunlight helps the color set. To seal the tone, they finish by rubbing it with powdered horn or baking soda.

This entire process takes time, but each step adds depth to the final piece. From raw silver to a finished product, Tokyo silverware is made to last, with both beauty and purpose.

 

6. Echizen cutlery

Echizen cutlery, known in Japan as Echizen uchihamono, comes from the area around Echizen city in Fukui Prefecture. This region is known for its deep history in blacksmithing, especially when it comes to making blades by hand. The knives and sickles made here are forged using traditional methods that have been passed down for centuries.

Knife Forging with the Double Layering Method

The forging process for Echizen knives starts with a method called double layering. This involves placing two steel plates on top of each other and hammering both sides with high force. The layering makes the blade thicker at first, which means the steel has to be beaten hard to flatten it out and shape it properly.

This approach has a few key benefits. First, it keeps the steel from cooling too fast during the heating process. That means the blade doesn’t need to be reheated over and over again, which helps avoid surface flaws. Second, the final blade ends up smooth and even, which is important for cutting performance and edge retention.

Rotated Steel Joining for Strong, Sharp Sickles

Echizen sickles are made using a different forging technique called rotated steel joining. Here, the blade edge starts as a corner of steel and is hammered diagonally across the entire blade, shaping it into a diamond form. This creates a very thin but strong edge that stays sharp for a long time and is easy to sharpen when needed. The result is a reliable blade perfect for farming, pruning, or general outdoor work.

Centuries of Craft Rooted in Swordmaking

The roots of Echizen cutlery go back to the early 1300s. A swordsmith named Chiyozuru Kuniyasu moved from Kyoto to the Echizen area and began forging swords and farming tools. His skill with steel helped shape the region’s identity as a center for handcrafted blades.

Over time, the demand for agricultural tools grew. By the Edo period, from the 1600s to the late 1800s, a group of blacksmith merchants had formed a guild under the protection of the Sendai domain. These craftsmen were already well-known, and their blades were trusted across the country. Traveling traders who dealt in lacquerware often helped spread the word, taking orders for Echizen sickles and knives while they traveled the country looking for lacquer trees.

Even after the Meiji Restoration in the late 1800s, when the Sendai domain lost its influence and the guild dissolved, the Echizen cutlery industry kept going strong. By 1874, Echizen was producing about 30 percent of the nation’s sickles and 25 percent of its knives.

A Tradition Kept Alive Through Generations

Echizen blades became even more essential during the growth of the silk industry in the early 1900s. Tools like mulberry-cutting sickles and knives were in high demand. This helped the region’s craftsmen continue their work without interruption.

To this day, Echizen cutlery is still made using time-honored methods. Skilled artisans rely on hand-finishing to craft each blade with precision. The product lineup includes not just knives and sickles, but also trimming shears and billhooks. Each piece reflects generations of knowledge, care, and hands-on skill.

This strong blend of old-world craftsmanship and practical design is what sets Echizen cutlery apart in the world of forged blades.

How Echizen Knives Are Made: Step-by-Step Blade Crafting Process

The making of Echizen knives follows a careful, hands-on process that blends old forging traditions with a sharp focus on detail. Every step matters. Each blade goes through a full cycle of heating, shaping, smoothing, and sharpening to reach its final form. Here's how the process works from start to finish.

Heating and Forging the Steel

It all starts by heating the steel that will form the cutting edge. The steel is brought up to around 800 degrees Celsius, or 1472 degrees Fahrenheit. Once it's hot enough, it's forged to size by beating it with a hammer. This strengthens the metal and sets the foundation for the blade.

Joining Steel and Iron by Forge Welding

Next, a bar of iron gets a groove cut into it. The piece of forged steel is inserted into this groove. A hammer is used again to fuse the two metals into one. This step bonds the cutting steel with the iron base, which gives the blade both sharpness and strength.

Forming the Knife Body

Once the materials are joined, the flat part of the knife is shaped and cut down to the proper size. This gives the blade its basic form.

Forging the Tang for the Handle

After the blade shape is defined, the tang is made. This is the narrow section that connects to the knife handle. Forging the tang helps ensure the handle fits securely.

Using Double Layering to Thin the Blade

Now the double layering begins. This involves hammering both sides of the steel to stretch it out and make it thin. Because the blade is made of two-layered plates, it’s twice as thick at this point, so a high-speed machine hammer is used to beat it evenly.

Double layering helps hold the heat inside the metal longer, which avoids the need for reheating. That keeps the blade surface smooth and even. This method is one of the unique techniques behind Echizen cutlery.

Annealing to Stabilize the Blade

Once shaping is done, the blade gets heated again to about 800 degrees Celsius and then allowed to cool slowly on its own. This is called annealing. It helps settle the metal’s structure and reduce internal stress.

Smoothing the Surface

After annealing, the blade moves on to rough smoothing. A machine hammer is used to smooth the outer surface and remove anything stuck to it. Then comes finish smoothing, where hammering continues to stretch and clean the blade further.

Trimming the Final Shape

Next, the blade is cut into its exact shape. Extra metal is trimmed off so the blade fits the design perfectly.

Hardening the Steel

Now it’s time to harden the blade. First, a layer of mud is applied to it. Then the blade is heated again to around 800 degrees Celsius. Once it’s hot enough, it's plunged into cold water. This sudden cooling locks in hardness and edge retention.

Tempering for Durability

Hard blades can be brittle. So to keep the steel tough without making it too fragile, the blade is tempered. It’s heated again, this time to between 150 and 220 degrees Celsius (302 to 428 Fahrenheit), for about thirty minutes. Then it’s cooled slowly back to room temperature. This step makes the steel durable and long-lasting.

Sharpening the Blade

Now the rough sharpening begins. The blade is ground using a coarse whetstone to shape the edge. Then it’s sharpened again using a finer whetstone to refine the cutting edge.

Final Blade Sharpening

The edge is sharpened once more, this time with more care and precision. This step is all about refining the performance and feel of the blade.

Finishing Touches and Polishing

To finish it all off, the whole knife is polished until it shines. The sharp edge is then dulled slightly using a blurring tool. This creates a small gap at the very edge of the blade, which helps prevent chipping and keeps the knife sharp longer.

Each Echizen knife goes through this full process to ensure every blade is solid, sharp, and built to last. This balance of old-world skill and step-by-step care is what makes Echizen blades stand out in the world of traditional Japanese cutlery.

 

7. Osaka Naniwa pewterware

Osaka Naniwa pewterware, known in Japan as Osaka Naniwa Suzuki, is a traditional metal craft made in and around the city of Osaka. It's a centuries-old form of tinware that’s still produced by hand today. While Japan once mined its own tin, most of the metal now comes from Thailand and Indonesia. Each item is handmade, which means no two pieces are exactly the same, even if they come from the same artisan. That’s because tin is soft and hard to shape with machines, so human skill is still the main tool.

Tin is also a stable and long-lasting metal. It’s often used to make sake sets because many believe tin improves the taste of sake. The surface of the metal is said to mellow sharp flavors, giving the drink a smoother feel. This is why Osaka tinware is also used for beer cups and flower vases. The inside of each beer mug is carved with a textured pattern. That helps keep the foam fresh for longer. The rim is made thick enough to feel good against the lips, making every sip smooth and satisfying.

Other products, like tea canisters, are shaped on a lathe. These require exact cuts to make sure the lid seals tight. That seal matters because it blocks out moisture and air, which protects the tea leaves from going stale. This kind of airtight design is a big reason why tea lovers prefer Osaka-made tin canisters.

The Long History Behind Tin Crafts in Osaka

The roots of Osaka’s tinware stretch back over a thousand years. The earliest records go as far back as the Asuka period, which ran from 538 to 710 CE. Some of the oldest pieces still exist today in the Shosoin Repository in Nara. Back then, tin was so valuable that only the Imperial court used it. It sat in the same league as gold and silver. It was used only for important items like ritual tools and dining sets for the nobility.

A historical record called Jinrin-kinmouzui mentions tin craftsmen working in Kyoto and the wider Kansai region as early as the Edo period. That began in 1603. Another document, Naniwa-suzume, notes that Osaka’s tinware production started in 1679. By the middle of the Edo period, the craft had spread across the Kamigata area, which includes Osaka, Kyoto, Nara, Shiga, and Hyogo. This region had strong distribution systems, making it ideal for growing the tin industry.

By the end of the Taisho period, which lasted until 1926, the Osaka area had nearly fifty tin manufacturers and more than three hundred artisans working full time. But things changed fast when World War II began. Many craftsmen were sent to war, and tin became hard to get. Production nearly stopped.

Still, the tradition didn’t die. It slowly came back after the war. By 1983, Osaka Naniwa pewterware was officially recognized as a traditional Japanese craft by the Ministry of International Trade and Industry. That recognition helped preserve the craft and gave it a new path forward.

Legacy of the Shosoin Repository

One of the best records of ancient Japanese tinware comes from the Shosoin Repository in Nara. This building has been around since the eighth century and still holds thousands of historical treasures. Many of these items traveled the Silk Road before ending up in Japan. The collection also includes more than 10,000 hand-written documents from the Nara period. Today, the Imperial Household Agency is in charge of the repository, keeping its contents protected and preserved for future generations.

The story of Osaka Naniwa pewterware is one of skill, history, and quiet resilience. It’s a craft shaped by hand, passed through generations, and still valued today for both its beauty and function.

How Osaka Naniwa Pewterware Is Made: Step-by-Step Crafting Process

Importing Tin for Pewter Production

Osaka Naniwa pewterware starts with high-quality tin. Today, the metal mostly comes from Thailand, Malaysia, and Indonesia. Tin is chosen because it’s clean, stable, and perfect for shaping by hand. Local mines no longer supply it, so these Southeast Asian imports keep the tradition alive.

Melting and Pouring Tin Into Molds

Tin melts at a low heat, around 230 degrees Celsius, or 446 degrees Fahrenheit. This means city gas or similar sources can easily handle the job. The tin blocks are melted down in a pot until they turn liquid. Then, using a ladle, the molten tin is poured into a mold. The mold can be made from cement, clay, or metal, depending on the item.

If the mold is too cold, the tin hardens too fast. So the craftsman has to pour the metal in, pour it back out, and reheat it in the pot. This is repeated until the mold holds the right temperature. Once set, the hardened tin is taken out. Any extra tin around the edges gets trimmed off.

Cutting and Shaping on the Lathe

For round pieces like tea canisters, the solid tin is shaped on a turning lathe. This step takes steady hands and sharp eyes. The lid and base have to line up perfectly, so the cuts must be exact.

If the item is too tall or narrow to mold in one go, like a vase, it’s made in parts. Each section is cut both inside and out, then joined together by welding. After that, different planes are used to smooth and shape the piece. The craftsman finishes it off with natural tools like scouring rush or leaves from the oriental elm tree to give the surface a clean, polished feel.

Adding Handles, Spouts, and Details

Some parts can't be shaped on a lathe. Handles, spouts, or other attachments are made separately. The tinware is cut, bent, and hammered to fit the design. Each piece is matched and connected with care to keep everything seamless.

Etching and Surface Pattern Design

Once the shape is complete, the surface design gets added. A design is painted on with lacquer or enamel. Then the whole piece is dipped in a nitric acid solution. This etches the areas that weren’t painted, leaving a textured surface.

After that, the surface is washed with water. Then, black or red lacquer is applied and wiped away several times. This fills the etched parts and brings out the pattern. The whole look depends on how much corrosion happens, which can change with the weather or season, so this part takes a lot of experience.

Final Polishing and Assembly

After the lacquer dries, the pewter piece is polished one more time using the lathe. Then the last details are added. If there’s a handle, knob, or spout, it gets attached now. This is the final stage where everything comes together, and the piece is finished.

Osaka Naniwa pewterware isn’t just a product. It’s a result of patience, steady hands, and precise tools. From start to finish, every step depends on the eye and touch of a trained artisan.

 

8. Tosa cutlery

Tosa cutlery, known as Tosa uchihamono in Japanese, refers to hand-forged blades made in Kochi Prefecture. This includes towns and cities like Ino, Kami, Nankoku, Tosa, and Susaki. The name comes from the region’s old name, Tosa. Only blades made using time-tested forging methods can truly be called Tosa uchihamono.

These blades are shaped through a method called free forging. That means each piece is hammered and pressed into form by hand while the metal is still hot. The process is slow and requires focus. It’s not mass-produced work. Every blade can be made in small batches, one at a time, and can be customized. Craftsmen in this field often spend years learning how to make everything from basic kitchen knives to large saws used in forestry.

The roots of Tosa cutlery go back to farming and forestry. These tools were made to work hard. That’s why Tosa blades are known for being sharp, long-lasting, and easy to care for. They're built for use, not for show. The range includes kitchen knives, hatchets, axes, sickles, hoes, and other field tools.

The History Behind Tosa Blades

Kochi Prefecture is full of forests. For centuries, people here have made strong blades for chopping trees and clearing land. In 1306, a group of sword makers from Yamato Province, which is now Nara, moved to Tosa. They followed the Gorozaemon Yoshimitsu style of swordsmithing. These craftsmen thrived during the Sengoku period, a time of war and unrest from 1467 to 1568, by supplying swords and weapons for battle.

The new sword-making techniques spread to local blacksmiths already making agricultural tools. By 1590, records show there were 399 blacksmiths working in Tosa. But the real growth in cutlery didn’t happen until 1621. That year, the region’s economy started to struggle. To fix it, the local government pushed for new rice fields and better use of forest resources. This increased the need for quality blades. Blacksmiths responded with better tools and more output.

That push forward changed everything. Craftsmen tested new ways of forging, sharpening, and shaping. These experiments laid the groundwork for how Tosa blades are made today. The knowledge has been passed down through generations. Even now, local artisans continue to improve the craft while sticking to its roots.

Why Tosa Cutlery Still Stands Out

Tosa blades aren’t about mass production or factory lines. Each piece is made with skill and patience. The forging is done by hand. That old method, free forging, lets craftsmen shape the blade exactly how they want it. It takes time and effort, but the results speak for themselves.

The tools are sharp, strong, and built to last. They hold their edge. They don’t need much care. And they work well in kitchens, fields, or forests. That’s what makes Tosa cutlery different. It’s not just a product. It’s a living tradition with deep roots in real, everyday use.

Today, Tosa blades still come from the same region, using the same techniques passed down since the Edo period. These aren’t just knives or axes. They’re the result of centuries of trial, work, and refinement. If you want a blade that’s been tested over time and built to do the job, Tosa cutlery delivers.

The Traditional Process Behind Tosa Cutlery

Starting with the Charcoal

The process begins with charcoal. It’s not just any charcoal either. It has to be split into even pieces. This helps keep the heat steady when air is pumped into the furnace using a bellows. The fire has to reach just the right temperature to handle steel and iron properly. It might sound simple, but getting the charcoal right takes time. Some say it takes three years just to learn how to split it correctly.

Getting the Steel and Iron Ready

Tosa blades use a method where steel is set into iron. First, a strip of steel is cut for the cutting edge. Then, a groove is made in a thin piece of iron. The steel gets pressed into that groove and lightly hammered in place. Boric acid is added to help bond the metals. After that, it all goes into the fire.

Welding the Metals Together

Next comes forge welding. The metal heats up in the furnace, then it’s hammered to fuse the steel and iron. The soft iron helps cushion the hard steel so it doesn’t crack. Some makers today use pre-bonded metal, but many still stick to the traditional way.

Forging and Shaping the Blade

Once the blade is hot and ready, it goes on an anvil. A machine called a belt hammer is used to beat it into shape. This tool, which spins fast and hammers quickly, became common during the Showa period and helped ramp up output. Even so, the finer parts of the blade are still shaped by hand with a regular hammer. This step, called free forging, takes real experience. It’s all about feel and control.

Grinding the Shape

After forging, the blade is ground with a fast-spinning grinder. This step smooths things out and gives the blade its balance and basic shape.

Coating the Blade with Mud

The next step is mud coating. A thin, even layer of mud is spread across the blade. This helps control the quenching process later and protects the surface during rapid cooling.

Quenching and Tempering the Blade

The blade is heated in a hardening furnace to around 770 to 800 degrees Celsius. Once it hits that point, it’s plunged into water to harden it. That’s called quenching. It makes the blade tough, but too much hardness can make it fragile. That’s why tempering follows.

For tempering, the blade is slowly heated again, this time in a low-temperature furnace set to around 170 degrees Celsius. Fuel oil keeps it steady. After it heats through, the blade is removed and left to cool down on its own. This step helps the metal stay strong without being brittle.

Fixing Any Warps

The heat and pressure can cause the blade to twist or warp. To fix that, the face and back are carefully hammered until the shape is corrected. This needs a careful hand and a good eye.

Sharpening and Finishing the Edge

The last step is sharpening. The blade goes through rough grinding, then semi-finishing, and finally gets a fine edge. The end result is a sharp, clean blade that’s ready for use.

One Craftsman, Start to Finish

In most factories today, each step might be done by a different person. But in Tosa cutlery, one artisan usually handles every single part of the process. That’s what sets it apart. It’s not just about tools or tradition. It’s about one person seeing the blade through from start to finish. Every blade carries that personal touch. That’s why Tosa cutlery holds its place as a true craft.

 

9. Tsubame-tsuiki copperware

Tsubame Tsuiki Copperware comes from the town of Tsubame, in Niigata Prefecture, Japan. This metalcraft has been around since the middle of the Edo period, back when kettles and daily-use tools were being made using copper from Mount Yahiko nearby. The copper here is soft enough to shape by hand, and that’s the heart of the craft. The word "tsuiki" refers to the hammering process used to mold these copper sheets into smooth, finished pieces.

The technique is done entirely by hand. Craftsmen strike the copper plates hundreds of thousands of times to get that polished, almost porcelain-like surface. That’s what gives the final product its clean, bright look. As time goes on, the copper takes on a deep, rich tone that many people find even more beautiful. As long as you take care of it, it keeps getting better with age.

These pieces aren’t just for show. You’ll find vases, water jugs, and copper teapots still used every day. The metal reacts with the water and helps smooth out the flavor of tea. That’s one of the reasons copper teapots are still prized today. In 1981, Tsubame Tsuiki Copperware was officially recognized as a traditional Japanese craft by Japan’s Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry.

Where It Started and How It Survived

The town of Tsubame has a long history with metal. Even back in the early Edo period, they were making iron nails for buildings. The copperware tradition got its start when skilled workers from Sendai, up in Miyagi Prefecture, came to Tsubame and brought the tsuiki hammering technique with them. That method has been kept alive for more than two hundred years.

Today, Tsubame is the only place in Japan still using this exact hand-hammering technique to make copperware. The reason the craft survived here is thanks to the high-quality copper mined from Mount Yahiko. It was the right material in the right place, and it pushed the whole region toward fine metalwork.

As time passed, the craft expanded beyond kettles. During the Meiji period, artisans started using more advanced carving techniques to create art pieces. Teapots, pitchers, and flower vases became more refined, both in form and function. These pieces aren't just tools. They’re built to last and to be used. Their beauty becomes part of everyday life.

In 1894, a flower vase made using the Tsubame tsuiki technique was gifted to Emperor Meiji. That moment marked the switch from common household item to something with national value. It showed how far the craft had come. From nails and kettles to art and tradition, Tsubame Tsuiki Copperware has stayed useful, beautiful, and very much alive.

How Tsubame Tsuiki Copperware Is Made

Hammering the Copper into Shape

The process starts by cutting a copper plate down to size. From there, the plate is shaped and hammered by hand. This first step usually begins with the side of the copper, using a wooden mallet on a wooden base made just for this task. That base has grooves and dips built into it, each one meant for shaping different parts of the kettle, like the spout or rounded edges. How hard the artisan hits the copper, and from which angle, depends on the copper’s thickness and how soft it is. Getting this right takes real skill and a sharp eye. Every movement has to be exact. This step is the foundation and shows how good the craftsman really is.

Thinning the Copper

Next comes the thinning stage. The copper sheet gets hammered again, this time to stretch and thin it. The plate sits on a solid metal tool called a torikuchi, or ategane. This L-shaped stake is pressed into a wooden block made from zelkova, a hardwood native to Japan. The torikuchi helps the artisan shape narrow sections, like the kettle’s spout. To pull this off, the copper has to be hammered over and over again. It’s a slow job that calls for a lot of focus and patience.

Annealing the Metal

As the copper is hammered, it stiffens up and becomes harder to work with. So, to keep shaping it, the metal needs to be softened again. The piece is heated in a furnace set to about 650 degrees Celsius. This heating process is called annealing. After it cools, the copper is soft enough to keep working on. Hammering and heating are repeated many times until the shape is done.

Refining the Shape

Once the main shape is in place, the piece is checked for bumps or warps. These get smoothed out so the shape is clean and even. Each round of hammering also brings out more shine in the surface. The finish at this point already starts to look smooth and polished.

Carving and Decoration

With the final shape set, it’s time to add the details. Patterns and designs are carved straight into the copper using a chisel called a tagane. These designs can range from simple lines to complex patterns. Sometimes, gold or silver is inlaid into the carved areas using a method called zogan. These decorations turn the kettle from a simple tool into a work of art.

Coloring and Final Finish

The last step gives the copper its final look. The piece is dipped in a special solution to change the color and texture of the surface. If a darker tone is wanted, the copper is first coated in tin, then fired at 800 degrees Celsius and hammered again. After that, it’s boiled in a solution of green rust and copper sulfate. This process gives the copper a deep, dark purple hue. If the aim is a reddish-brown tone, the same liquid is used, but the boiling time is longer.

Each kettle is made from one single copper sheet, shaped only by hand and hammer. That’s what gives Tsubame Tsuiki Copperware its unique quality. The way the metal is hammered is the most important part of the whole process. That’s why every artisan has to be highly trained and skilled in hammerwork. Without that, the piece won’t come out right. This is a craft that relies on steady hands, long practice, and a deep understanding of the material.

 

10. Shinshu Forged Blades

Shinshu Forged Blades, known in Japan as Shinshu Uchihamono, are hand-forged metal tools made in and around Nagano city in Nagano Prefecture. This region used to be called Shinano, also known as Shinshu. That’s where the name comes from. These blades are known for being incredibly sharp, tough, and reliable. Each one is beaten and shaped by hand, using skills passed down over centuries.

Most Shinshu blades are made for farming, forestry, or cooking. You’ll find tools like hoes, sickles, scythes, hatchets, axes, and kitchen knives. But their sickles and scythes stand out the most. People across Japan value them for their unique design. The blade is shaped to pull the grass back toward the user after each cut, which saves effort and keeps the motion smooth. Even though they’re single-edged and very thin, they stay strong and are easy to handle. They're light in the hand but cut with power.

The methods for making these blades started taking shape in the early 1800s. But the roots of Shinshu blade-making go back much further.

During the Sengoku period in the mid-1500s, when the Battle of Kawanakajima took place, blacksmiths came to Nagano to repair the weapons and swords of samurai. After the war, some of them stayed. They shared their metalworking skills with the local people, and those techniques became the base for Shinshu-style forging. Over time, the same methods used to make weapons were adapted to create farming and forestry tools. Those skills were passed down from one generation to the next.

The location of Nagano also played a big part in how this craft evolved. The area sits along the old Hokkokukaido Road, which connected to the Nakasendo Road leading toward Tokyo. This route made it easy to bring in raw materials. Iron and steel came from the Sanin region and arrived by ship at Naoetsu port in Niigata. From there, it was carried inland to Nagano. The region also had plenty of pine forests, which produced soft pine charcoal. This charcoal burns cooler than regular charcoal, which makes it perfect for heating and shaping thin blades like the ones made in Shinshu.

Thanks to these advantages, both the materials and the finished blades moved smoothly in and out of the region. The local economy and blacksmithing craft grew side by side.

In the first half of the 1800s, one local blacksmith came up with a new way of making grass sickles. Another craftsman improved the double-edged blade by turning it into a thinner single-edge design. These two innovations became the core of what we now recognize as traditional Shinshu sickles. Those blades were sharper, lighter, and easier to control than others.

Today, the same forging methods are still used. Skilled blacksmiths in Nagano continue to make Shinshu Uchihamono blades by hand, just as they’ve been made for centuries. The legacy of those early techniques lives on, kept alive by artisans who’ve inherited and refined the craft.

How Shinshu Blades Are Made: Step-by-Step Forging Process

Making a Shinshu sickle takes time, patience, and serious skill. Every step matters, and each one adds something to the strength, sharpness, and balance of the blade. Here's how it's done, from start to finish.

Joining the Steel and Iron

The process begins with forge welding. This means the steel that forms the cutting edge gets joined to a thicker iron base. Both metals are heated until they're red-hot, then hammered together. The steel is usually thinner than the iron. A typical setup might use 2 millimeters of steel pressed onto 9 millimeters of iron. That creates a strong body with a sharp edge.

Shaping the Tang

The tang is the narrow part that fits into the handle. First, the metal is beaten and curved to shape the tang. Then it’s stretched out until it’s long and narrow. This part locks the blade into the handle later.

Forming the Blade

Once the tang is set, the rest of the blade gets stretched into shape. The blacksmith hammers it until it starts to take on the rough curve of a sickle. The edge is then trimmed and adjusted to match the right size. The tang is refined again to make sure it fits just right.

Evening Out the Blade

The blade is heated again, this time to around 700°C. Then, it’s hammered with several types of hammers to even out the thickness across the flat of the blade. This takes precision and years of practice. A steady hand makes a blade that cuts smooth and wears evenly.

Cleaning and Marking the Blade

After the shaping, the surface gets cleaned. Iron oxide and slag are removed. Then, the blacksmith engraves trademarks and any quality marks directly onto the metal.

Strengthening and Shaping the Blade

The blade goes back into the fire, heated this time to around 500°C. It’s then flattened with a hand hammer to toughen it. This is called smoothing, and it’s a big part of what makes Shinshu blades strong and durable.

After smoothing, two key shaping steps come next. One is shibazuke, which tilts the blade and tang to help bring cut grass closer to the person’s hand. The second is tsuri, where the cutting edge is curved inward. This shape makes it easier to stay on target, even if the blade is thin and light.

Sharpening and Hardening

Next, the steel edge is sharpened on a second-cut grindstone. This is the first step in giving the blade its cutting power.

Then comes quenching. The blade is coated in mud, which helps it cool evenly, then heated to around 780°C. Once it reaches the right temperature, it's plunged into water. This locks in the steel’s structure and makes it hard. Craftsmen say that quenching is when the soul enters the blade.

Tempering for Balance

If steel is too hard, it becomes brittle and can chip. So, after quenching, the blade is tempered. This step softens it slightly, giving it the right mix of hardness and flexibility. That keeps the edge sharp while preventing cracks or nicks.

Fixing Any Warps

Because iron and steel shrink at different rates when they cool, the blade can warp during hardening. The blacksmith carefully checks for bends and corrects them before moving on.

Final Touches

The blade gets polished with a buffing cloth. After that, a layer of varnish or camellia oil is added to protect against rust. Finally, the blade is mounted into the handle. At this point, the Shinshu sickle is ready to use.

Every one of these steps builds on the last. That’s what gives Shinshu Uchihamono blades their sharp edge, balanced weight, and lasting quality. Each sickle is the result of careful hands, good materials, and old methods that still work today.

 

11. Banshu-miki cutlery

Banshu Miki cutlery comes from Miki City in Hyogo Prefecture, a place long known for traditional Japanese metalwork. This region is one of Japan's major blade-making areas, right alongside places like Shinshu and Tosa. What sets Banshu Miki cutlery apart is its variety. These tools range from everyday blades like kitchen knives and wood chisels to larger hand tools used in building and carpentry. Every piece is handmade, shaped using age-old forging techniques.

The roots of this craft go back about 1500 years. It began when blacksmiths from the ancient Korean kingdom of Paekche moved to what is now Miki City. They brought their skills with them and started working alongside local Japanese smiths. Even though the forging tradition started early, the style we now call Banshu Miki Uchihamono didn’t take form until much later. The foundation of today’s method was built during the Edo period. That’s when the name and the craft truly took shape.

In 1763, local makers began producing wide-bladed ripsaws, marking a turning point for the area. Just a few years earlier, in 1760, a massive fire hit Edo, which is now Tokyo. The rebuilding effort that followed created a spike in demand for tools like axes and saws. Miki craftsmen stepped in to meet that need, and their work started getting noticed.

Still, the path hasn’t always been smooth. In 1792, Banshu Miki blacksmiths lost their exclusive right to sell in Osaka, which was a major market at the time. Later, in the 1880s, Western tools and machine-based manufacturing started pushing out traditional forging. Demand for handmade tools dropped fast.

Even so, the tradition didn’t disappear. Skilled craftsmen in Miki kept the techniques alive. They trained new smiths, held onto the old methods, and passed everything down through generations. That steady dedication is why Banshu Miki Uchihamono is still known today for its quality, variety, and deep roots in Japanese forging history.

How Banshu Miki Blades Are Made: Step-by-Step Forging Process

The making of Banshu Miki cutlery is a long, detailed process. Each blade is crafted by hand using traditional Japanese forging methods. It takes careful heat control, steady hands, and years of experience. Here’s how the blades are made from start to finish.

Forge Welding: Bonding the Metals

It starts with heating the base iron to around 1200°C. At this point, carbon steel is added and joined to the iron using a bonding agent that contains borax. If the heat goes too high or drops too low, the metals won’t bond well. That’s why the blacksmith has to monitor the temperature closely during this stage.

Forging the Edge: Shaping the Blade Tip

Once the iron and steel are fused, the smith begins forging the edge and the tip. This is done by hammering the heated metal over and over until the two layers are tightly connected. The blade at this point is still oversized, so it’s trimmed down to the right length before moving to the next step.

Forging the Spine: Working the Opposite Side

Next, the middle of the blade gets forged. This part lies opposite the edge. Again, heat control is important. After shaping the center, the smith makes the tang, which is the piece that fits into the handle.

Smith Forging: Adjusting the Final Form

Now the blade goes back into the fire to fine-tune its shape. Since tools like chisels have thin edges, overheating can weaken them. The fire is kept between 950°C and 1000°C. Once it reaches the right heat, the smith works the blade again to fix its width and thickness.

Annealing: Softening the Steel

The next step is annealing. The blade is placed in straw ash and heated to about 750°C. This low heat helps soften the steel and change its structure. It also makes the metal easier to file and shape in later steps.

Grinding: Forming the Blade

After annealing, the blade is ready for shaping. The steel is soft enough to be filed and ground. First, rough sharpening is done to round out the center. Then the back of the blade is planed. The whole surface is smoothed by buffing it with a rotating cloth and polishing compound.

Quenching: Hardening the Steel

Once polished, the blade is heated again to between 700°C and 800°C. Then it’s cooled quickly by plunging it into water. A layer of polishing powder is added to the surface before the blade hits the water. This helps even out the hardness and gives the blade a more finished look.

Tempering: Strengthening and Shining

After quenching, the blade can warp or twist slightly. So it's gently hammered back into shape. Then comes tempering, which is done in stages. First, the blade is heated in oil and rinsed in water. Then it’s placed in salt and tempered again at 150°C. This step brings out both strength and shine.

Final Polishing: Sharpening the Edge

The last step is polishing the blade one more time. This is where the sharp edge and fine tip are fully formed. After all the heating, forging, quenching, and tempering, this final polish gives the blade its cutting power and refined finish.

Every tool made this way reflects not just traditional Japanese metalwork but also the precision and pride of the craftsmen behind it.

 

12. Higo inlays

Higo Zogan is a type of metal inlay work that comes from Kumamoto in Japan. It started as a way to decorate weapons, mostly gun barrels and sword guards used by samurai. Today, that same skill is used to make small accessories and decorative pieces for the home. What makes this craft stand out is how quiet and refined it looks. It's not loud or flashy. It reflects the calm, precise beauty tied to samurai culture.

The contrast is what gives Higo Zogan its unique style. You’ve got delicate gold and silver inlays set against a deep, almost black metal background. That dark iron base isn’t painted. It gets its color from rusting naturally, which takes time. That slow process brings out the texture and beauty of the iron. And that contrast (the bright inlay against the dark base) creates a clean and elegant balance that feels timeless.

There are a couple of key techniques used in Higo Zogan. One is called nunome, which means something like “woven cloth.” It gets its name because the iron is etched with fine crisscross lines that look like a fabric weave. Gold or silver is pressed into those tiny grooves to make detailed patterns. Another technique, used less often, is horikomi, where the design is engraved directly into the metal instead. These methods rely on precision. No paint. Just skill, pressure, and patience.

Over generations, other traditional methods were developed. Some use thick layers of gold or silver. Some use chisels to make tiny cuts from four directions - up, down, left, right, plus diagonal strokes. This creates a solid grip for the metal inlay and adds depth to the design. The patterns themselves have been passed down in the Higo region and are closely tied to the culture and identity of the place.

The craft goes back to the early Edo period. A gunsmith named Matashichi Hayashi is credited with starting it. He worked for Lord Kiyomasa Kato at first. But after the Kato family lost power in 1632, Hayashi started working for the new lord, Tadatoshi Hosokawa. Before that, Hayashi had trained in Kyoto, where he learned the nunome method. Once back in Kumamoto, he began inlaying designs like the kuyomon crest, which shows nine small circles arranged in a grid, and cherry blossom shapes. His skill helped turn this method into a serious art form.

Even though Tadatoshi was the lord during Hayashi’s time, his father, Tadaoki Hosokawa, had a big influence on how the craft grew. Tadaoki liked refined, graceful things. He hired top artisans, like the blacksmith Hikozo Hirata, and pushed them to compete with each other. That rivalry drove the work to new levels of detail and elegance. With the Hosokawa family backing the craft, and the samurai class in power, Higo Zogan flourished.

Near the end of the Tokugawa Shogunate, another master, Rakuju Kamiyoshi, came along. People called him the second Matashichi Hayashi. Thanks to him, Higo Zogan kept its strong reputation in the world of fine metalwork. But when the Meiji Restoration came and the government banned wearing swords, the market collapsed overnight. No more need for sword fittings meant the whole industry took a massive hit.

Even so, the craft didn’t vanish. The techniques got repurposed for other things, things like tea ceremony utensils, brooches, and other decorative pieces. That change helped keep the tradition alive. And because of that, Higo Zogan is still around today. The same careful inlay work, the same quiet beauty, just in a new form.

How Higo Zogan Is Made: A Step-by-Step Look at the Inlay Process

Shaping the Iron Base

It starts with cutting and filing an iron plate to match the shape of the final piece. The size and outline are shaped by hand, using basic tools. Every item begins as a flat metal sheet.

Cleaning the Surface

Next, the iron is filed again to get rid of rust, stains, or any dirt. The goal here is to get a clean surface. This step is important because the metal needs to be spotless before the real work starts.

Smoothing the Iron Base

Now the iron is locked into a stand made from pine resin and powdered stone. This keeps the piece steady. Sandpaper is used to smooth the surface until it feels clean and even. Any small bump or dip will mess with the inlay later.

Drawing the Design

The design comes next. Sometimes it's drawn straight onto the metal with a brush. Other times, it’s first sketched on thin paper, then traced onto the base with a graver. This is where the artist gets to bring in their own ideas and personal style. It sets the tone for the whole piece.

Engraving the Nunome

Using a hammer and fine chisel, the surface is cut with tiny lines in four directions: vertical, horizontal, and both diagonals. This creates a crisscross texture called nunome, which holds the inlay in place. The vertical lines are cut deeper than the rest, giving the metal a textured base. These lines are packed tight - 16 can fit inside a square millimeter.

Cutting Out the Motifs

The inlay patterns are made from sheets of gold, silver, or electrum. These metal sheets are rolled to a consistent thickness, about four times thicker than those used in Kyoto-style inlay. This extra thickness gives Higo Zogan a bold, solid look. The designs are cut from the metal and placed in a dish. They're then heated to soften the metal and improve how well it bonds with the base. This heat treatment is called namashi.

Hammering the Inlay

Once the shapes are ready, they’re pressed onto the nunome lines. A deer antler and hammer are used for this. The pieces are tapped gently but firmly until the base pattern shows through the metal. This makes sure the gold or silver sticks properly.

Securing the Metal

Excess bits of gold are trimmed. Then the metal surface is tapped again with a different hammer to smooth it out. During this stage, the crisscross pattern disappears from the inlay, and the pieces lock firmly into the base.

Polishing the Surface

The entire surface is rubbed down to polish it. It’s also hammered again with the deer antler to help blend the inlay and base together.

Erasing the Texture

A pencil-shaped iron rod is used to scrape away what’s left of the nunome pattern from the background. Then, a tool called kisaki is used to smooth the surface even further.

More Polishing

Different types of polishing rods are used one after another to restore the metal’s natural smoothness and shine. This step also helps blend the inlay and the base even more.

Detail Engraving

Tiny lines are cut into the gold or silver to add fine details. A special tool for hairline engraving is used. Then, everything is polished again using an abrasive powder to finish the decorative work.

Preparing the Metal to Rust

The finished metal is taken off the stand. All the resin and grime is washed off. The piece is then dipped into a weak nitric acid solution until it slightly tarnishes. Ammonia is added to cancel out the acid. Then the piece is rinsed under running water. This roughens the surface just enough to help rust form evenly.

Controlled Rusting

Rusting liquid is applied evenly. The metal is heated over a flame to begin rusting. Then it’s cooled and dried. The liquid is brushed on again, and the heating is repeated. This process may be done multiple times. Temperature and humidity affect how the rust forms, so the artist has to watch it closely to make sure the color turns out even.

Locking in the Black Finish

Once rusting is done, the piece is left overnight. Then it’s boiled in tea for half an hour. Tannins in the tea stop the rusting and deepen the color to the signature black used in Higo Zogan. After boiling, the piece is rinsed and held over a flame until it lets off a white smoke. Then it’s removed and cooled.

Final Heating and Coating

Camellia oil mixed with soot is painted on the surface. The piece is heated again. This step is repeated until a thin, protective layer forms. It keeps the metal from rusting again. The piece is then polished with straight camellia oil to bring out the shine in the gold and silver. A few more touches, like shading or detail engraving, are added here to complete the finish.

Assembling the Final Piece

In the last step, any parts like hinges or hooks are attached. After that, the piece is ready. The full Higo Zogan item is complete and polished, showing off both the craft and the tradition behind it.

 

13. Echigo-sanjo cutlery

Echigo Sanjo blades come from Sanjo City in Niigata Prefecture. These blades are called Uchihamono, which means hammer-forged. Unlike modern knives that are pressed from molds and polished by machines, Echigo Sanjo blades are still shaped the old way. Craftsmen heat the steel until it's red, then hammer it by hand to form the blade.

This hand-forging technique goes back generations. It started with farm tools like sickles and hoes. Today, makers in Sanjo produce all kinds of cutting tools, including kitchen knives, scissors, hatchets, and chisels. What sets them apart is the way the blades are made. Repeated hammering compresses the metal and pushes out any tiny air pockets inside. This gives the finished blade extra strength and helps it resist wear and tear.

While a few machines help with certain steps today, the core of the work is still done by hand. Skilled blacksmiths handle the most important parts of the process, like shaping and sharpening, to keep the same high quality that made these tools famous in the first place.

The History Behind Sanjo's Forged Tools

The story of Echigo Sanjo blades goes back to the Edo period. At first, people in the area used the forging methods to make farm tools. In 1625, a local official named Seibei Ohyama came up with a plan to help struggling farmers. He invited nail makers from Edo, now known as Tokyo, to come teach the farmers how to make nails.

During the farming off-season, these new skills gave people a second source of income. Some farmers started working with metal full-time. As more blacksmiths settled in Sanjo, a new metalworking industry took shape. By 1661, records show there were already around twenty full-time blacksmiths working in the castle town.

That’s when the forged blade tradition in Sanjo really began. Over time, the town became known for its skilled craftsmanship and strong tools. Today, that legacy continues with every knife and blade made the same way it was done hundreds of years ago.

How Echigo Sanjo Blades Are Made: Step-by-Step Knife Forging Process

The way these blades are made hasn’t changed much in centuries. Every step takes time, skill, and close attention. The process uses traditional methods to turn raw metal into strong, sharp cutting tools.

Forging and Welding: Shaping Metal with Heat and Pressure

Forging starts by heating the metal until it glows. At this point, the color tells the craftsman what temperature it has reached. Cherry red means it's cooler, white means it's extremely hot. When it hits about 900°C, it’s ready.

The blade begins with two parts: a steel edge and a soft iron base. These are bonded together using a mix of borax and iron oxide powder. For most kitchen knives, soft iron forms the body, and high-carbon tool steel forms the edge. Yasuki steel and SK steel are the most common types used. This bond creates a blade that’s strong at the edge and softer toward the spine, giving it both sharpness and flexibility.

Smith Forging: Beating Metal to Strengthen the Blade

Once the steel and iron are bonded, the blade is hammered over and over. It goes back into the fire, gets reheated, and then hammered again. This repetition forces out impurities and binds the metals even tighter. That pressure forms the rough shape of the knife and strengthens the blade edge. This is one of the most important parts of the process.

Shaping the Knife: Cutting and Forming by Hand

While the iron is still glowing red, the blacksmith cuts the knife into shape. There are no shortcuts here. Each blade is shaped by hand, one at a time. This is where you see the years of experience show up in small, careful movements. The knife starts to take its final form.

Quenching: Hardening the Blade

Once the blade is shaped, a mix of polishing powder and clay is brushed over the surface. After it dries, the blade goes back into the furnace. When it reaches about 780°C, the craftsman watches the color change and pulls the blade out at just the right time. Then it's plunged into cold water. This sudden drop in temperature hardens the steel.

Tempering: Giving the Blade Toughness

Right after quenching, the blade is strong but brittle. It could crack if dropped. To fix that, it’s heated again, this time in a low-heat furnace or warm oil, usually between 50 and 200°C. Then it cools slowly. This process gives the metal the right balance between strength and flexibility.

Sharpening and Fixing Warps: Final Touches on the Blade Edge

To get a razor-sharp edge, the blade is ground using whetstones. It starts with a coarse stone, then moves through finer ones. During this step, a lot of water is used to cool the blade and keep it from warping. This helps the sharpness stay even from tip to heel. By the end, the edge is clean, strong, and ready for use. Every knife is checked and sharpened by hand to make sure it meets the same high standard.

 

14. Echigo-yoita cutlery

Echigo Yoita cutlery comes from the Yoita region in Nagaoka City, Niigata Prefecture. These blades are made using a smith forging method. That means the metal is heated until it glows red, then hammered into shape by hand. What sets them apart is how sharp and reliable they are. They cut clean, and they’re easy to use.

This traditional cutlery includes four main types of tools: planes, chisels, axes, and adzes. Each one has been officially recognized as a Traditional Craft. These tools became well-known during the Edo period when temple carpenters across Japan started using them. Those carpenters played a big role in building Yoita into a thriving castle town. Over time, the quality of these tools stayed strong. Even now, skilled craftsmen still use Echigo Yoita blades in their everyday work.

In recent years, these forged blades have found their way into homes and outdoor spaces, too. They’ve become trusted not just by professionals, but also by regular people who want high-quality tools for everyday use. Whether you're building, gardening, or crafting, these blades are known to deliver solid performance.

A Legacy of Blacksmithing That Began in the Warring States Period

The history of Echigo Yoita Uchihamono goes way back. It started during the Warring States period in 1578. That year, Yamatonokami Sanetsuna Naoe, a retainer of the famous warlord Kenshin Uesugi, brought blacksmiths from Kasugayama to Yoita. These craftsmen laid the groundwork for what would become centuries of blade-making. At first, they made swords. Later, they began forging guns too.

By the early Edo period, the region saw more development, thanks to ship transport along the Shinano River. This helped the Yoita area grow and gave the local cutlery makers more reach. Around the mid-Edo period, blacksmiths in Yoita began making tools for carpenters. They crafted well-known pieces like Doi chisels and Hyobu chisels.

Then, during the early Meiji period, a swordsmith named Ryuminsai Kaneyuki Matsunaga started making planes in addition to swords. That move pushed Yoita into the spotlight as a top area for producing fine carpentry tools.

Craftsmanship Passed Down for Generations

The forging skills behind Echigo Yoita blades have been handed down for generations. Every cut, every edge, every curve shows that legacy. These tools are built with care and skill, the same way they have been for hundreds of years. In 1986, the government officially named Echigo Yoita Uchihamono a Traditional Craft. That recognition wasn’t just about the quality of the tools. It also honored the history, the people, and the centuries-old techniques still in use today.

These blades are more than just tools. They’re the result of deep experience, careful workmanship, and pride in a long-standing tradition of Japanese blacksmithing. Whether used by professional woodworkers or everyday users, Echigo Yoita cutlery continues to prove its value in the modern world.

Traditional Echigo Yoita Blade-Making: Step-by-Step Craftsmanship

Heating and Forging the Iron Core

The process starts with heating the iron base until it's red hot. This happens inside a furnace at temperatures above 1200°C. Once the iron is glowing, it's beaten with an electric spring hammer. This stretches and hardens the metal, forming the basic shape of the tool.

Joining the Steel for the Cutting Edge

Next is forge welding. A special welding agent is applied to the iron, which is then reheated and joined with a strip of steel. The steel is what forms the blade’s cutting edge. Both metals are hammered together using the spring hammer, fusing them into one solid piece.

Hardening Through Forging and Normalizing

At this stage, the metal gets heated again and beaten repeatedly. This forging step strengthens the blade and makes it more durable. Then comes normalizing. This part evens out the internal structure of the metal, giving the blade long-lasting sharpness and better resistance to wear.

Softening the Blade with Controlled Cooling

Now the metal needs to be softened a bit for the next steps. This is called annealing. To keep the carbon from escaping during this step, the blade is coated in mud. It’s then heated to around 800°C and left to cool slowly. Once it's fully cooled, the mud is cleaned off.

Shaping the Edge Roughly

With the metal softened, the blade goes through rough finishing. A grinder thins out the cutting edge to bring it closer to its final form. This step sets up the blade for detailed work later on.

Strengthening the Blade with Heat Treatment

The rough-shaped blade gets heat-treated next. It’s heated to around 400°C to make the steel stronger and improve its overall toughness.

Adding Texture with a Pattern Hammer

To give the blade its signature look, a patterned hammer is used. This step adds surface texture to the blade, but it also helps strengthen it further.

Hardening and Tempering the Blade

Quenching comes next. The blade is heated to 800°C, then quickly plunged into water. This rapid cooling hardens the metal. But hard steel can also be brittle, so tempering is needed right after. The blade is heated again, this time to about 150 to 160°C, then cooled gradually. This step keeps the hardness but adds toughness, so the blade won’t break under stress.

Sharpening for Use

Sharpening is done with a grinder while pouring water over the blade to keep it cool. This keeps the edge from overheating. Blade edging is another sharpening method that fine-tunes the blade based on its intended use, whether it's for cutting wood, trimming, or carving.

Fitting the Handle to Finish the Tool

Last comes the fitting process. Plane blades are inserted into wooden stocks. Chisels and knives get their handles attached to a tang. Once the handle is secure, the tool is finished and ready for use.

This entire process, from heating to fitting, reflects generations of skill passed down in the Yoita region. Each tool is made to last, built with attention to detail and a deep understanding of how blades should perform.

 

15. Chiba Artisan Tools

Chiba Artisan Tools are handmade cutlery and farming tools created in the Boso Peninsula of Chiba Prefecture. These tools are crafted using time-honored methods passed down through generations. Local blacksmiths make everything by hand, from sickles and hoes to knives and western-style scissors.

This region has been known for its iron sand since ancient times. Because of that, blacksmithing has a long history here. The area's iron supply made it a natural place for toolmaking to thrive. Craftsmen in the Boso Peninsula have been producing a wide range of tools for farmers, carpenters, and artisans across Japan.

One of the standout techniques used in making these tools is called ha awase. This method involves joining two blades together with a hammer or file, mainly when making scissors. Other techniques like tataki zokei and katagiri zokei involve shaping metal by hammer or chisel. Each tool goes through careful hand-straightening, sharpening, and finishing. Every step is done by skilled hands. That’s what gives these tools their strength and high quality.

Back in the early days of the Edo period, after Ieyasu Tokugawa founded the shogunate, large construction projects began around this region. River control work along the Tonegawa and land reclamation around Inbanuma brought more need for strong tools. That pushed more blacksmiths into making custom tools for local carpenters and farmers. By the end of the Edo era, the Boso Peninsula was already well-known for producing handmade artisan tools.

This area was also the birthplace of dairy farming in Japan. Many farms were spread across the land. As farming grew in the Meiji era, so did the need for high-quality hand tools. That demand led to more production of western scissors, utility knives, sickles, and farming tools.

After the Dampatsurei law forced men to cut off their traditional top-knots, barbershops became more common. That change in culture created new demand for hairdressing scissors. Chiba blacksmiths stepped up, adding hair-cutting shears to their lineup.

Today, traditional blacksmiths in the Boso Peninsula still make these tools the old way. Every piece is shaped, sharpened, and finished by hand using methods that haven’t changed in centuries. These artisan tools are not just functional. They carry the legacy of the region and show the quiet beauty that comes from true craftsmanship.

Traditional Forging of Chiba Artisan Tools

Choosing the Right Material

The first step is picking the right kind of metal. Iron or steel is chosen depending on the tool being made, like scissors, sickles, or knives. The purpose of the tool matters too. Sometimes the metal is tapped with a hammer to test how hard or flexible it is. That helps the blacksmith decide if it’s strong enough for the job.

Forming the Base Iron

Once the right metal is picked, it gets heated in a forge. When it’s red hot, it’s laid on an anvil and hammered into the right thickness and size. This creates the base that everything else is built from.

Shaping with Heat and Hammer

For tools like sickles or scissors, the red-hot iron is shaped by hand on the anvil. It’s beaten into the right outline. When making scissors, the metal is stretched long and narrow. The parts that form the hinge and finger rings are also shaped at this stage.

Cutting to Shape

When making western-style knives, a different process begins. A paper pattern is placed on the hot metal. The lines are traced and then cut, either with a press cutter or by hand using a hammer and chisel. This gives the tool its basic form.

Welding the Blade Core

To make a strong blade, forge welding is used. Steel is first hammered into a long flat strip. That strip is cut to size. Then, a welding agent made from boric acid and iron powder is added to the hot base metal. The steel strip is placed on top and heated again. Both layers are fused together with a hammer, either by hand or machine.

Hardening the Steel

The next step is heating the material to about 850 degrees Celsius until it turns deep red. Then it’s quickly cooled, a process known as quenching. Depending on how hard the tool needs to be, it’s either dipped in water or oil. This makes the blade strong and hard.

Tempering for Toughness

Right after hardening, the metal is heated again to about 200 degrees Celsius, then cooled again. This makes the steel more flexible, so it doesn’t crack or snap. This step balances strength with toughness.

Fixing Shape and Straightness

Sometimes, the steel warps during heat treatment. That’s normal. The blacksmith uses chisels, hammers, and straightening tools to fix any bends and get the shape just right again.

Sharpening the Edge

The next step is whetting the blade. This is done using pig iron, a whetstone, or a grinding wheel. Since friction can reheat the metal, it’s kept wet throughout the process. The blacksmith starts with a rough stone and moves to finer ones as the blade gets sharper.

Joining Blades for Scissors

For tools like scissors that have two blades, this step joins them together. The joint is hammered into shape depending on what the scissors will be used for, like pruning, haircutting, or sewing. Then the edges are filed or whetted to match and align perfectly.

Final Touches

Last comes the finishing. Handles are attached based on the shape and type of tool. The edge gets its final sharpening. When everything is checked and polished, the tool is ready. It’s fully handmade and ready to be used with precision.

 

16. Tokyo antimony craft

Tokyo Antimony Craft refers to a unique type of metalwork that comes from northeast Tokyo and stretches through Abiko City in Chiba Prefecture. It uses antimony, which is an alloy that’s easy to shape, holds detail well, and stays smooth. It also doesn’t shrink after casting. Because of these traits, artisans can make fine, detailed items like accessories, figurines, trophies, music boxes, and decorative home goods.

When coated in gold, silver, or copper, the pieces take on a rich, high-end finish. They look and feel like luxury goods. In more recent years, makers started using a new tin-based alloy called Etena. It was developed by the Tokyo Metropolitan Industrial Technology Research Institute and the Tokyo Antimony Association. Etena can be polished to a mirror-like shine, similar to silverware. Traditional tin couldn’t get that kind of finish. This change pushed the craft forward and helped give Tokyo Antimony items their current bright, reflective look.

A Craft Born from Change

Antimony metalwork in Japan goes back to 1877. This was ten years after the Meiji Restoration in 1867, which brought major changes to the country. When the Tokugawa Shogunate fell, many craftsmen who once made weapons lost their jobs. These skilled casters and engravers had to pivot fast. They used their existing tools and techniques to begin creating antimony products instead.

Even though the craft was born in uncertain times, it held steady through some of Japan’s most difficult periods. It survived the Great Kanto Earthquake, economic downturns, and even World War II. Just one month after the war ended in 1945, craftsmen met to restart the antimony craft movement. A few years later, in 1949, they officially formed the Antimony Industrial Cooperative Association.

Fueling Japan’s Export Industry

After the war, the antimony industry helped support Japan’s effort to grow its economy through exports. The finely crafted antimony goods were well-received overseas and became part of the national trade strategy to bring in foreign currency. This craft played a small but real part in Japan’s postwar recovery and growth, especially during the Meiji, Taisho, and Showa periods.

What started as a way for out-of-work craftsmen to make a living turned into an enduring part of Japan’s industrial and cultural history. Today, Tokyo Antimony Craft continues to hold value as a traditional Japanese art. It’s still used in everyday items and appreciated around the world, especially in Europe and North America. People collect it, use it, and recognize its blend of tradition and quality.

How Tokyo Antimony Craft is Made: Step-by-Step Process

Model Creation: Shaping the Original Design

Every antimony piece starts with a handmade model. Skilled artisans craft these using either wood or plaster, depending on the design. These craftsmen understand the entire process from start to finish. Their experience helps them choose the right material to bring out each detail clearly. This model becomes the base for every part that follows.

Casting Mold: Building the Metal Form

From the model, a sand mold is made first. Then, brass alloy is poured into it to form metal parts. These metal parts are combined to make the final casting mold. To strengthen the mold, it’s assembled tightly and hammered into place. After that, the mold is smoothed using a lathe, then filed and polished with charcoal.

This is when detailed designs are carved in. Artisans use tools like a graver and a nanako chisel, which has a round tip to help make precise patterns. Traditional motifs like flowers, birds, and Mt. Fuji were common before World War II. Today, you see more Western and modern patterns. Engraving is the most difficult step. It takes the most precision and skill. The methods used today haven’t changed since the Meiji era. Since the mold is made from brass alloy, it allows for extremely fine detail.

Casting: Pouring the Alloy

There are four casting methods, each with its own technique.

Yakibuki involves heating the mold in a furnace to around 300 to 350°C. That’s the melting point of antimony. Once heated, molten alloy is poured into the mold. Then it’s slowly cooled with water. The exact temperature, angle, metal flow, and how air escapes the mold all depend on the craftsman’s skill and timing.

In modoshibuki, the metal is poured in and left for just 10 to 15 seconds before it’s poured back out. This works well for items like figurines or jewelry boxes and can handle any shape.

Hiyashibuki skips the water-cooling step from yakibuki. It’s a simpler process, used for certain smaller pieces.

Jiganebuki uses heat from the molten metal itself. The mold floats on top of the hot metal to get to casting temperature. This method also suits small items.

Finishing: Cleaning Up the Cast

After casting, the rough piece comes out of the mold. It’s carefully cleaned up using special tools. Seams and marks from the mold are smoothed out by hand. The goal is to make each piece look seamless and refined.

Plating: Adding the Metal Finish

When a piece is getting plated in gold, silver, or copper, it always starts with a base copper layer. After that, the final metal coat is added. Sometimes, a layer of transparent enamel is applied to stop rust from forming.

Coating: Protecting the Shine

To keep the surface from fading or tarnishing, a clear topcoat is added. This transparent finish keeps the shine and protects the metal underneath, especially on pieces that have been plated.

This full process, from model to final coat, shows how much care and technique goes into Tokyo Antimony Craft. Each step relies on human skill, passed down over generations, with a strong focus on detail, tradition, and finish.