Other Traditional Japanese Textiles: Kumihimo, Embroidery, and Tabi Socks
1. Kyo braided cords
Kyo braided cords, also called Kyo Kumihimo, are handwoven silk cords made in Kyoto and Uji, both in Kyoto Prefecture. These cords have been around since the Heian period, which ran from 794 to 1192 CE. They were mainly used in Buddhist and Shinto rituals, often seen on altars and sacred ornaments. At the same time, nobles and the Imperial family used them as decorative accessories. Since the court was in Kyoto back then, the craft developed near the heart of political and cultural power.
The cords are made by hand from silk threads, braided into all sorts of shapes and textures. There are hundreds of braiding styles. Some cords are flat, others are round or square, and some have detailed herringbone patterns. Over time, a wide range of tools and looms were created to match the different types of braids. Even now, Kyo Kumihimo cords are made with the same care, with neat patterns and a smooth silk shine. They don’t just look elegant. They're also tough, don’t fray, and hold a tight knot. That’s why they’re still used for tying obi, which are kimono sashes. Today, you can also find them used for phone charms and keychains.
Ancient Origins and Chinese Influence
Braided cords have been part of Japanese culture since the Jomon period, which dates as far back as 14,000 BCE. Back then, the cords were basic and simple. But that changed during the Asuka and Nara periods, between 592 and 794 CE. That’s when advanced braiding techniques came in from China. Cord weaving turned into a serious craft. Some of the oldest examples of this work are still kept today in the Shosoin Repository in Nara.
Switching to Japanese Style in the Heian Period
By the Heian period, Japanese tastes started to take over. The designs moved away from heavy Chinese styles. The cords started showing off what made Japanese art unique: soft, layered color, delicate detail, and refined shape. The nobility wanted accessories that matched the elegance of their clothing and surroundings. These cords were used to decorate formal headwear and colorful kimono.
Wabi Sabi and the Warrior Class
When the Muromachi period began in 1336, Japan was changing. The idea of wabi sabi, which focuses on quiet beauty and simplicity, became popular. That came mostly from the tea ceremony culture. The cords changed again. They moved from bold and flashy to clean and minimal. Then the samurai rose to power. They needed something both beautiful and useful. Kyo Kumihimo cords were strong enough to tie armor, swords, and helmets.
The Edo Period and Beyond
By the Edo period, from 1603 to 1868, these cords were no longer just for the elite. More people could afford and wear them. They became part of everyday life, used across all social classes. When the Meiji period began in 1868, the cords became a staple in Japanese clothing, especially for securing kimono sashes.
Kyo braided cords still carry the same elegance and strength they always have. Their look has evolved, but their quality has stayed the same. Whether used in ancient rituals or as part of modern fashion, they remain a symbol of detailed craftsmanship and tradition.
How Kyo Braided Cords Are Made
Preparing the Threads
First, the threads are sorted by type and weight. Most cords use silk, but sometimes cotton, gold, or silver threads are added. The total thread count depends on how many cords are being made. Everything starts with this step, so the right amount and mix are key.
Dyeing the Threads
Next comes dyeing. The threads are colored to match the design. It’s not just one round of dye, either. They’re dyed over and over to get an even, rich color. This step takes real skill, so it’s done by professionals who specialize in color mixing and shading. Every detail in the color plan is carefully ordered ahead of time to fit the final look.
Spooling the Dyed Threads
Once the dye is set and dry, the threads are wound onto a wooden spool called a kowaku. A machine does this part. Each thread is placed with care so it doesn’t tangle or stretch.
Measuring and Grouping Threads
After that, the threads are wound onto a frame to measure their length. But it’s not just one thread per cord. Several threads are grouped and twisted together based on the design. Color combinations are chosen at this stage to add depth and richness. This grouping is what gives the cord its unique look.
Twisting for Strength and Shine
Now the threads are twisted using a hatcho twisting machine. All the threads must be the same length and color before this happens. Twisting makes them stronger and brings out the natural sheen of the silk. This step finishes the thread prep and gets everything ready for braiding.
Braiding the Cords
Braiding is where the cords take shape. Depending on the design, different stands are used: round, square, or tall ones. The braid can be flat, square, or round. One method, called yotsugumi, uses four spools. Another, yatsugumi, uses eight. There’s also edogumi, which is more complex. The spools used here are called tama. Some braids need up to a hundred of these.
Unlike flat weaving, kumihimo is braided on a diagonal. That gives the cord a more sculpted, three-dimensional look. Keeping the tension steady while braiding is crucial. Any uneven pull ruins the pattern. This part of the process takes focus and consistency. But it also has a rhythm to it. That’s why even beginners can learn the basics, and why many tourists try it as a hands-on experience.
Final Touches and Finishing
Once the braiding is done, the ends of the cord are finished with tassels. Each thread is gently pulled loose, teased out by hand. The base of the tassel is tied tight, then trimmed to the right length. After that, steam is used to smooth the shape. A final roll ensures the whole cord is even and clean.
These cords are often used to tie kimono sashes. But they’re also shaped into knots for decoration. Some knots look like butterflies or carry meanings tied to luck, rank, or family heritage. They’ve been used on armor, temple ornaments, and ceremonial items.
In the past, noble families had their own ways of tying knots. Each household knew its own knot patterns. If someone outside the family tried to open a sealed box, it would be obvious. That made these cords not just decorative, but also a quiet form of protection.
2. Iga braided cords
Iga braided cords, or Iga Kumihimo, are traditional Japanese cords made in Mie Prefecture. These cords are usually crafted with silk, sometimes blended with gold or silver threads for added shine. The silk is dyed in deep, vivid colors, giving each cord a bold and elegant look. The cords are hand-braided, which gives them a soft texture and a smooth finish that catches the light.
The technique behind Iga Kumihimo has been passed down for generations. The tradition is strong, but it’s still evolving. What started as a cultural art form now also fits into modern life. You’ll still see braided cords used as obi ties and kimono accessories. But now, people also use them for things like phone straps, keychains, and bracelets. Workshops in the area teach people how to make simple items, so the craft stays alive and useful today.
The Origins of Braided Cords in Japan
The method of braiding cords came to Japan from China, along with Buddhism. At first, the cords were mostly used in temples. They decorated holy texts and the robes worn by Buddhist monks. Later, during the Heian period, the cords became part of the formal dress worn by the aristocracy in Kyoto. These weren’t just decorative. The cords showed status and added style to court outfits.
From Temples to Armor
During the Kamakura period, samurai began to use braided cords too. They added them to swords and armor. The cords weren’t just for show. They helped hold things in place and gave the gear a refined look. In the Muromachi period, people started using them in tea ceremonies. The cords tied tea utensils and added charm to the ritual. By then, the cords were recognized across the country as both useful and beautiful.
Braided Cords in the Samurai Era
In the Sengoku period, these cords were still used in armor but with more detail. Each braid had a purpose and was often personalized. When Japan entered the Edo period, the cords became part of the sword scabbard. The government at the time supported the craft. Skilled makers competed with each other, which pushed the art even further. More braiding styles appeared. The cords also started showing up on pill boxes, tobacco pouches, and short jackets called haori.
Modern Uses and New Life for an Old Craft
Everything changed in the Meiji period when the law banned samurai from wearing swords. That hit cord makers hard, since swords had been one of the biggest uses for their work. But instead of dying out, the tradition adapted. New designs came up, and braided cords found their way into modern fashion and accessories. Today, these cords still use the same old techniques, but they’re made into things people actually use now.
From ancient temples to everyday phone charms, Iga Kumihimo has stayed relevant. The materials and methods stay true to the past, but the products keep moving forward. That’s what makes Iga braided cords so unique. They carry centuries of history, yet they still fit into daily life.
How Iga Braided Cords Are Made
Thread Prep Starts It All
The process kicks off with raw silk threads. Sometimes gold or silver threads are mixed in, too. Everything is measured out by weight, so the right amount gets used for the final piece. Traditional braiding stands come into play here. They help handle the delicate threads during every stage of work.
Next Comes the Dyeing
Once the threads are prepped, they’re dyed. The goal is to match the design exactly. Dyes are mixed into custom blends, and threads are dipped, dried, then dipped again. This back-and-forth creates color depth and smooth transitions. Some cords need soft fades or layered shades, and that takes serious skill. Usually, about seven different colors are used. The artisan has to decide how much of each to mix and when. Getting the shades just right takes years of experience and a sharp eye for tone and balance.
Then Reeling Takes Over
After dyeing, the threads get wound onto a frame by hand. A reeling tool helps guide the threads so they stay even and smooth. This step gets everything ready for the next phase.
Measuring for Precision
Now it’s time to figure out how much thread is actually needed. The threads get wrapped around a special measuring frame. At the same time, the total number of threads is counted and set. This helps the artisan prep for exact braiding later.
Twisting Brings Texture
Once measured, the threads are twisted. Some are twisted tight, some loose. This affects how the final braid looks and feels. The threads are spun on a wheel, then stored on reels until it’s time to braid.
Braiding by Hand or Machine
There are three main braid styles: round, square, and flat. Different braiding stands are used depending on the style. Common ones include round, square, bamboo, and high stands. In the Meiji period, this region had over eighty shops making braided cords. That number has dropped over time. Skilled hand-braiders are rare now. But even today, Iga produces 90 percent of Japan’s hand-braided cords. These days, machines are also used to keep up with demand. Mass production is possible, but the best quality still comes from hands-on craftsmanship.
Final Touches and Finish
To wrap up the process, both ends of the cord are teased out by hand. Tassels are formed and tied tightly with thread. After that, steaming smooths the whole braid. A rolling stand is used last to make sure everything looks neat and uniform. For obi sash cords, dense silk is braided to stay flexible and soft, making it easy to tie. The final product isn’t just pretty. It’s durable, smooth, and comfortable to wear. The color, texture, and strength make it stand out in both tradition and quality.
3. Kyo embroidery
Kyo embroidery, or Kyo-nui, is a traditional Japanese craft from Kyoto. This style of embroidery shows the refined, detailed side of Kyoto's culture. It takes serious skill and focus. Artisans use silk, gold, and silver threads, often blending thirty or more stitching techniques in one piece. Most of the time, this embroidery decorates kimono, but you’ll also see it on handbags, shawls, purses, curtains, and other fabric items.
The color range is massive, with close to two thousand shades available. A single kimono design might use twenty to thirty different colors. The depth of detail is what makes it stand out. Unlike French embroidery, where one hand does most of the work, Kyo embroidery uses both hands. The artisan works the fabric from above and below at the same time, which creates a smoother, more flowing design.
The Rise of Kyo Embroidery
Kyo embroidery became widely known during the Edo period. At the time, exports grew fast, and the craft gained international attention. It became a symbol of Japanese taste and elegance. But the roots of this style go much deeper, all the way back to the Heian period. That’s when it really started to take shape as a key part of Kyoto’s textile culture.
Early History of Japanese Embroidery
Embroidery first appeared in Japan during the Asuka period. At the time, most embroidered designs were on religious images. These early pieces were rare and highly respected. By the Heian period, Kyoto nobles had started wearing embroidered clothing. The Imperial Court even created a department called Oribe no Tsukasa to manage fabric work, dyeing, and design. This helped embroidery grow quickly, especially in Kyoto.
Back then, Kyo embroidery showed up on many parts of court life. You’d see it on the layered robes worn by aristocratic women or on the costumes used in Noh theater. It added luxury and beauty wherever it appeared.
Wider Use Across Classes
In the Azuchi-Momoyama period, embroidery wasn’t just for court life anymore. Samurai families started wearing it too. Robes worn by their wives often had fine embroidered touches. The craft began spreading fast.
Then came the Edo period, and embroidery culture peaked. Wealthy merchants wanted their status to show, and one way they did that was by ordering kosode kimono with full embroidery designs. The detail and color made each one stand out. These kimono weren’t just clothes. They were a public show of taste, wealth, and style.
Kyo Embroidery in Modern Life
Today, Kyo embroidery still holds onto its traditional roots, but it’s also been shaped to fit modern life. You’ll still find it on kimono and obi, but it also shows up on home décor and accessories. Items like sashes, bags, and interior pieces are designed with the same techniques, only adjusted for today’s styles. The method stays old, but the results are fresh. Kyo embroidery keeps moving with the times without losing what makes it special.
How Kyo Embroidery Is Made
Step One: Drawing the Design
Every piece starts with a hand-drawn design. The artisan sketches it with pencil or sumi ink on paper. These designs can be anything from classic patterns to brand-new ideas made just for that item. Each workshop creates its own look, so styles vary depending on who’s making it.
Step Two: Transferring the Design to Fabric
Once the design is ready, it's copied onto fabric. This is usually done by shining a light through a glass board, placing the fabric on top, and tracing the design. Some workshops now use silk-screen methods to speed things up. Either way, the lines are temporary. As the embroidery takes shape, they fade.
Step Three: Choosing the Colors
Next comes the color work. There are nearly two thousand types of Kyo embroidery threads, all dyed by each workshop to suit their own taste. Picking colors is part instinct, part skill. A kimono might use twenty to thirty shades, depending on the look. But the artisan has the final say. Some even say the threads seem to guide their hands. That kind of decision-making only comes from long experience and sharp intuition.
Step Four: Mounting the Fabric on the Frame
Once the color palette is set, the fabric gets stretched across a large wooden frame. The sketch is already on the cloth, and now it needs to be pulled tight without warping it. For smaller designs, like family crests on kimono, a small frame is used instead. Then, the embroidery threads are twisted with a special tool. This step gives Kyo embroidery its signature texture. It makes the thread sit higher on the fabric and catch light in different ways, which adds depth and brings out the shine. Without this step, the finished piece wouldn’t have the same rich look.
Step Five: Stitching the Embroidery
The stitching process uses handmade needles, each shaped for a specific task. There are over ten types of these needles, all made by one company in Hiroshima. Artisans value them highly. There are fifteen standard stitches in Kyo embroidery, but if you include advanced variations, there are around 150. In the past, different people handled different stitches. Now, each workshop follows its own methods, combining stitch types and thread colors in ways that make their work unique.
Step Six: The Final Touch
After the embroidery is done, the back of the fabric gets a light coat of glue. This holds the threads in place and strengthens the finished design. It also brings out the texture and polish of the embroidery, giving it that clean, elegant finish Kyo embroidery is known for.
4. Kaga embroidery
Kaga embroidery, or Kaga-nui, comes from Kanazawa in Japan’s Ishikawa prefecture. It’s a traditional hand embroidery that uses silk, gold, silver, and lacquered threads. The designs have a raised, textured feel that gives them depth and character. It’s detailed work, all stitched by hand, and known for looking elegant without being flashy.
The craft uses chain stitch, slip stitch, and something called suga-nui, where the threads run side by side with the fabric’s weft. Other advanced methods build up thread layers to create a three-dimensional effect, or blend different thread colors to create a smooth gradient. These stitches give Kaga-nui its signature look, rich with texture and shading.
One thing that makes Kaga embroidery stand out is how it starts with a plain fabric. The design is drawn onto it, then embroidered. Unlike Kyoto-style embroidery that decorates already dyed fabric, this method makes the embroidery pop more. It gives it a sculpted look. They also use twisted threads, which makes the finished work very strong. If a thread ever breaks, repairs are simple because the stitching runs the same direction on both sides. That makes it easier to fix just the damaged part.
Today, Kaga-nui is used for more than just high-end kimono. You’ll see it in framed artwork, tapestries, fabric lamps, and home decor. Its refined and detailed appearance has started getting more attention in recent years, especially from people looking for luxury craftwork in modern interiors.
The Origins of Kaga Embroidery
Embroidery first came to Japan as religious art. It started with shubutsu, which were stitched images of the Buddha. Over time, the art evolved into making elaborate clothing for nobles and samurai in Kyoto. It’s believed that embroidery came to Kaga during the early Muromachi period, between 1336 and 1573, when Buddhist missionaries arrived from Kyoto. They brought the skill with them, and people used it to decorate altar cloths and priest robes.
During the Edo period, which lasted from 1603 to 1868, Kaga-nui became more decorative. It was used on coats worn by Shoguns and lords over their armor. It also appeared on women’s kimono and on Kaga yuzen dye work. The art thrived thanks to support from local lords, who also encouraged other crafts like gold leaf work and yuzen dyeing. The embroidery style continued to develop into the Meiji era and beyond.
By the Taisho and Showa periods, which ran from 1912 to 1989, women began doing Western-style embroidery at home as side work. Factories started making decorative collars and kimono sashes. More workshops opened. More people got involved. Kaga-nui became a household name. Its high-quality kimono fabric reflected the local pride, wealth, and strong sense of beauty. That legacy still holds today.
Even now, Kaga embroidery stands out for its fine detail, lasting strength, and elegant finish. It’s expected to keep growing, especially in the world of luxury home decor and decorative arts. Its mix of tradition, skill, and style continues to draw people in.
Step-by-Step Kaga Embroidery Process
Drawing the Design
It starts with a hand-drawn design. The artist sketches the pattern using sumi ink and a brush or pencil. Many of the designs are traditional. Some show flower circles called hanamaru mon, treasure symbols known as takara zukushi, or the reversed horse character hidariuma. One pattern called Kaga hanamaru mon goes back to Matsu, wife of general Toshiie Maeda. She was known for her embroidery skills and helped spread this floral design across the Kaga region. That same pattern still appears on kimonos, collars, and fukusa, which are small decorative cloths.
Copying the Design onto Fabric
The drawn design gets placed on a light table. A plain piece of fabric is laid over it, and the design is traced. When making multiple copies of the same design, they use a stencil. That stencil is laid on the fabric, and white pigment made from calcium carbonate, called gofun, is used to copy the design clearly.
Dyeing the Thread
Every thread used in Kaga-nui is dyed by hand, one item at a time. First, the silk thread gets washed in cold water. Then it’s soaked in a dye bath and boiled. After that, the thread is set with acid, rinsed again, wrung out, straightened, and left to dry in the shade. Since each thread is dyed fresh for every new piece, it allows for endless subtle color variations.
Planning the Color Scheme
Once the threads are dyed, the artist selects the color mix to match the design and fabric. The threads are laid out on the cloth to check how they look. Sometimes silver and gold threads are added for contrast. Choosing the right thread shades is a key part of what makes Kaga embroidery stand out.
Framing the Fabric
The fabric is stretched onto a frame before stitching begins. Bigger pieces are held by rods on both ends and looped thread on the sides. The fabric must be pulled tight but not warped. For smaller items like family crests or handkerchiefs, a small square frame is used instead.
Twisting the Thread
To get the right thickness and texture, the threads are twisted by hand. A spinning wheel is used to first spool the thread, then twist it. There are two types: hand-twisting (teyori) and tool-assisted twisting (komayori). For teyori, threads are hooked to the stand and rolled between the hands. For komayori, the thread is split, pulled in opposite directions, hooked onto a twisting tool called yorikoma, and spun by hand.
Stitching the Embroidery
Different needle sizes are used depending on the area being worked. Kaga-nui uses a specific kind of needle that’s handmade, all the same length, and flat-headed. The artist uses traditional stitches like relief, satin, and gradation to build up detailed textures. This creates raised, shaded effects that give the piece depth and movement.
Final Touches
Once stitching is done, the work is cleaned. Any dust is brushed off, glue is added to the back, and the piece is lightly wiped with a damp cloth. It’s then dried carefully. Because this embroidery tradition grew as a home craft, many of the artisans are women who bring a fine, detailed touch. Their skill shows in the soft textures and careful finish of each piece.
5. Gyoda Tabi Socks
Gyoda Tabi Socks come from Gyoda, a city in Saitama Prefecture. This place is the heart of Japan's tabi sock production. The city sits between the Tonegawa and Arakawa rivers. Thanks to these rivers, the land has soft, sandy soil and plenty of water. The summers here get very hot, which helped make it a great spot for growing cotton. Over time, Gyoda became known for its cotton industry.
Back in the Edo period, Gyoda was near the Nakasendo, one of the five major routes that led to Edo, which is now Tokyo. Because of that location, the tabi sock business grew fast. Cotton from the area was used to make the socks, and they were stitched to fit the foot shape naturally. Small metal clasps made of brass or aluminum held them in place. Even now, tabi socks are a key part of Japanese kimono fashion.
Tabi Sock Production in Gyoda Goes Back Centuries
Old town maps of Gyoda from between 1716 and 1735 show three tabi shops already in business. That means the craft started at least that early. By the 1830s and 1840s, that number had jumped to 27 shops. Demand was rising as more people started wearing them. Shops in Gyoda began shipping to northeastern Japan and all the way to Hokkaido.
As production expanded, so did the tools. Makers brought in sewing machines made just for tabi socks. During the Russo-Japanese War between 1904 and 1905, the economy surged. That boom led to more factories being built to meet the growing demand for tabi. More warehouses were needed, too. Around 80 of these old tabi warehouses are still standing in Gyoda today. They give the town a timeless, classic feel.
Gyoda’s Rise as Japan’s Tabi Sock Capital
At the height of production in 1938 and 1939, Gyoda made about 80 percent of all the tabi socks in Japan. That’s when the town earned the title "Number One Tabi Town in Japan." Even now, when most people wear regular socks, Gyoda keeps the tradition going. Local makers are still producing tabi socks, creating new designs, and selling them in Japan and abroad.
The legacy of Gyoda Tabi Socks lives on, blending deep tradition with modern craftsmanship.
How Gyoda Tabi Socks Are Made
The process of making Gyoda Tabi Socks is careful and hands-on from start to finish. Every step focuses on quality and precision. Here's how the traditional tabi socks come together.
Preparing the Fabric for Cutting
Ten fabric sheets are stacked together. This saves time and keeps each layer even. Once stacked, the material is ready for the next step.
Cutting the Fabric
A tabi sock pattern is placed on top of the fabric stack. Then, the fabric is cut along the outline. This forms the basic pieces that will later be sewn into shape.
Adding Thread Loops
Small thread loops are sewn into the fabric. These loops are where the metal hooks will latch to keep the socks closed when worn.
Securing the Loops in Place
After the loops are added, they’re fixed tightly so they don’t move or come loose during wear. This step keeps the fit secure.
Backing the Hook Area
A backing fabric is stitched behind the spot where the hooks go. This adds strength and prevents the area from tearing.
Sewing on the Hooks
The hooks are then sewn on top of the backed fabric. These metal hooks are what fasten the tabi socks closed around the ankle.
Connecting the Inner and Outer Fabric
The inner lining and outer layer of the socks are sewn together. This makes the body of the tabi strong and comfortable inside and out.
Sewing the Instep
Next, the fabric over the top of the foot, or instep, is sewn. This part needs to fit snugly while allowing easy movement.
Shaping the Heel
The heel section is sewn with a rounded stitch. This helps the sock mold to the natural shape of the foot.
Forming the Toe
The toe area is stitched together with care. The sole cloth is also added at this point to support the front of the foot.
Attaching the Sole
The rest of the sole cloth is sewn to the bottom of the tabi. This adds structure and durability to the entire sock.
Applying Zigzag Stitching
Zigzag stitches are added where the sole cloth is attached. These stitches keep the edges from fraying or coming apart with wear.
Final Touches and Shaping
The last step is adjusting the overall shape. The sock is pressed and shaped so it fits well. Once this is done, the tabi sock is complete and ready to wear.
Each part of the process matters. From cutting to finishing, every stitch is made to keep the sock strong, flexible, and true to its traditional design.
